Barn Building 101: Special Needs – Layup and Rehab

May 23rd, 2013

horse in stall with dogs stall restWhether it’s your own horse or you are a barn owner thinking of adding another revenue stream by boarding horses that are injured, you will probably experience a horse needing special recuperative care at least once.  Most of the time, it will be a leg injury of some sort and your veterinarian will recommend “stall rest.”  For most of us, time off from work sounds great, but constant confinement to a working horse is anything but relaxing.  But there are ways to make your horse more comfortable during his time in his stall and rehab and make his care easier for you.

STALL REST

First, remember that even though your horse’s body may need stall rest, his mind doesn’t.  He will still need something to occupy his brain or he will FIND something to do, e.g. cribbing, stall weaving, calling to his neighbors.  Locating your horse in a bright, airy stall near some activity that he can watch (e.g. wash rack, tack room) is one way to keep your horse entertained while he’s in his stall.  Horse Stalls like Classic Equine Equipment’s European design with mesh or yoke stall fronts so he can see out into the aisle and mesh or partially open stall partitions so he can see his neighbors will help.  Adding stall mats or a stall mattress under the footing in his stall will give him extra comfort and stability.  It may also encourage him to lay down more and take the weight off the injured leg.  Using a hay rack or hay net forces him to work a bit harder and eat a bit slower than if you just put the hay on the ground where he can gobble it up quickly and then have nothing to do until the next feeding.  Of course, there are also numerous horse treat or other toys you can add to his stall  - a simple one is an old plastic milk jug into which you cut a whole and add some treats.  Tie it slightly above the horse’s head and he will learn to bump it to make a treat fall out.

TURNOUT

After a few days or weeks, your vet may allow your horse some outside time.  This usually means being turned out in a small paddock where he can walk around a bit more, but still not run and possibly reinjure himself.  Whether your horse has his own paddock attached to his stall or you use a small round pen, make sure that it has an excellent footing – even, stable and mud free.  One of the best ways to keep your horse protected during turnout is to use stall mats in the paddock or arena.  This ensures safe and comfortable surface.

BACK TO WORKtreadmill

Your vet has finally given you the OK to start working your horse again.  Usually he/she will recommend taking it very slow.  One of the best ways to slowly and carefully bring your horse back to his former fitness level without the possibility of reinjuring himself is by using a treadmill.  The treadmill lets your horse move freely in a straight line and to carry himself naturally.  This safe and controlled environment lets you create the perfect exercise program for your horse – Classic Equine Equipment’s FullStride Treadmill will remember it!

Another option is using an automated equine exerciser, such as Classic Equine Equipment’s ultraciser exerciser.  It has many of the same characteristics of using a treadmill, but allows you to exercise up to six horses at the same time.

In the past, many horse injuries were considered career-ending.  But with today’s veterinary science and products such as stall mats, treadmills and exercisers, you can soon be back to riding your horse.

Preparing for Disease

May 22nd, 2013

An ill horse is every owner’s worst nightmare, but if your horse is boarded at a large barn or if they became seriously sick, would you know what to do? Would you be prepared to handle it? Now is the time to lay out a plan of action – just in case.

Evaluation

How quickly would you discover that your horse was sick? Do you check on him in person daily, or do you have a reliable friend or barn owner who does? If you or your horse’s caretaker notices something amiss, then taking your horse’s vital signs is an important first step in evaluating his condition. It’s important that you or the caretaker has a baseline to compare his vitals to; take his resting pulse, respiration, and temperature multiple times to establish these baseline vitals, and post them in an area where they’ll be accessible in an emergency, such as in a first aid kit.

sickhorse

Along with your horse’s baseline vitals, other important information to keep in your first aid kit includes your veterinarian’s phone number and the locations and phone numbers of the nearest equine hospitals. Also be sure that your equine first aid kit includes a thermometer, and if it is a digital thermometer, keep fresh batteries on hand.

Transportation

If your horse needed to be hospitalized, do you have a truck and trailer which are ready to go, or do you need to borrow one from a friend? If so, make those arrangements now. If you own your own truck and trailer, check that the lights are all working, the tires are filled safe for use, and that the truck has enough gas in it to at least get you to a gas station if necessary.

How are your horse’s trailer loading manners? If they’re rusty, now is the time to brush up on them. Work with him until he loads easily, and give him frequent refresher courses to keep the loading process smooth.

Quarantine

quarantine

Hopefully your horse won’t need to be hospitalized, but you will need to separate him from other horses to prevent the spread of disease. This may be easier said than done, depending on the setup and size of your barn, so now is the time to give thought to how you would do this, should the problem arise. Ideally having a separate horse stall and turnout area, even if it’s a run-in shed that you can temporarily use for a stall, will allow you to keep your other horses safe.

Dealing with a sick horse is never fun, but if you prepare ahead of time you can make the experience easier on you both and ensure that your horse receives the best care possible, quickly.

The Growing Sport of Western Dressage

May 20th, 2013

Chances are you’ve heard that no matter what discipline you ride, schooling your horse in basic dressage can improve his performance in your chosen discipline. The emerging sport of western dressage builds on that idea, only western dressage takes it one step further by allowing western horses and riders to compete using western tack.

What we think of as today’s Western riding has been in practice since the 1700’s, originating on ranches and in the practices of the Spanish vaqueros. As horsemanship has evolved, so has our understanding of the mechanics of how horses move, and we’ve learned that training horses to be soft, light, and move correctly can both help prevent injuries and lengthen a horse’s career. Western dressage is a fairly new discipline to the United States, but it’s quickly catching on and gaining great popularity. Chances are that if there aren’t already shows offering classes in western dressage near you, they will be appearing soon.

The goal of western dressage is to create an American western horse who is supple, responsive, and balanced in his movements, as is demanded by dressage. Horses schooled in western dressage are expected to travel with lighter bit and rein contact than is used in traditional dressage; western dressage horses remain true to the western disciplines, but the dressage training increases the communication between horse and rider, and helps the horse better perform in the western disciplines.

Image Source: http://bluefountainfarm.blogspot.com

Image Source: http://bluefountainfarm.blogspot.com

In western dressage competitions, horses and riders prepare and perform a dressage test quite similar to a standard dressage test. Horse and rider pairs compete at different levels depending on their schooling and experience, and the tests are judged on the horse’s gaits (the walk, jog, and lope) and movement; impulsion and elasticity; submission to the rider (in that the horse pays attention, moves with confidence, accepts the bit willingly, and moves in harmony with the rider); and the rider’s position, seat, and correct application of the aids. Horses are shown in their traditional western tack, and are ridden in either a standard snaffle bit or a standard western bit.

No matter what discipline you normally ride, your horse can benefit from even basic dressage schooling. If you’re interested in learning more about western dressage, the Western Dressage Association of America has a wealth of information available on their website.

Find more interesting facts and photos on Pinterest!

Get Creative with Summer Horse Camps

May 17th, 2013

Summer brings with it the excitement of horse camps – perhaps you’re running one yourself this year. Camps are a great way to provide young riders with a fun, safe introduction to horses, but there’s only so much time that they can spend in the saddle. Have you started to brainstorm activities to keep campers entertained while they’re not riding? If you haven’t, or if you’re still in need of ideas, here are a few to get you inspired.

Keepsake Crafts

Sending campers home with a memento of their time at camp is always a nice touch, and there are a number of ways to do so. Ask your farrier if he has any used horseshoes he’d be willing to give you, and collect enough shoes to distribute one to each camper. You can take pictures of each camper with their favorite horse, print them out, and have campers clean the shoes and use them as picture frames. An alternative is to let campers paint the shoes and decorate them with beads and feathers – they can even weave twine between the openings to create their own “dreamcatcher” shoes.

http://treasuredtails.us/DreamCatcher.html

Image Source: http://treasuredtails.us/DreamCatcher.html

Other craft activities could include painting plastic grooming totes, painting wooden horse stall signs for the camp horses, and even painting a jump or plastic barrel racing barrel if you have one handy. Old nylon halters or browbands can be decorated with paints and beads, white baby pad saddle pads can make excellent tie-dying activities.

Educational Activities                                                                                                               

Consider having a scavenger hunt around the barn for horse-related items. Campers learn to identify equipment like specific bits, saddle styles, first aid supplies, and grooming tools through their hunt. Another option can be to set up a “barn scene” with a number of safety issues, such as pitchforks leaning into the aisle, a rope tied without a safety release knot, and a bucket of feed left uncovered. Have students identify the safety issues and fix them.

Equine Jeopardy is another great activity, and campers will put their horse knowledge to the test. Although it takes a bit more set-up time on your part (you’ll need to come up with horse-related categories and questions worth different points) the game allows campers to form teams and compete. You can even offer prizes to the winning team.

horseandkid

Image Source: http://horses4heroes.org/as-seen-in/horse-rider-magazine-talks-horses4heroes/

If you have a well-mannered, patient horse you can use him as a hands-on learning tool as well. Create small tags which identify the horse’s body parts, such as the hock, fetlock, withers, etc. Put scotch tape on the back of each tag and have campers place the tags on the corresponding areas of the horse’s body. Another option to this game is to use washable, nontoxic paint to have campers try to paint the horse’s skeleton onto his body.

The list of activities you can do with campers is endless – get creative and make this year’s summer camp one they’ll never forget.

Barn Building 101: Special Needs – New Horses and Foals

May 16th, 2013

Horse-QuarantineWhen building your barn, you may want to consider special stalls for “special needs” horses, e.g. mares and foals and new horses to your barn.

Whenever a new horse comes to your barn, it is a good idea to have the owner provide you with the medical history of the horses, especially deworming and current list of vaccinations. Depending on where the horse resided and where your barn is located, you may have different vaccination requirements than the horse has. For example, if rabies is not a problem where the horse lives, it may not have had that vaccination. But you may have an issue with rabies so be sure the horse is vaccinated well before coming to the barn. Don’t just take the owner’s word that the horse “has all his shots.”

If the horse is coming from out-of-state, he will be required to provide you with a health certificate completed by a practicing veterinarian within the last 30 days and, most likely, a Coggins test. But even the most careful vet might not be able to pick up all the “bugs” that the new horse may have recently come in contact with, especially if the horse is traveling with other horses of unknown health. Some illnesses take several days or even weeks to show up. So it’s always a good idea to isolate any new horses coming into your barn until you can be sure that they are completely healthy, usually 7-14 days

During isolation period, horse will only be allowed in designated isolation stalls and designated round pen. These areas should be identified. Because most barns don’t have a separate isolation area, it is best to designate one or two stalls as such. If you know you will be having horses coming in and out, you might want to use HDPE (High Density Polyethylene), made primarily from plastic and easy to clean, for these stalls.moveable partition

Quarantined horses won’t have much access to turnout or paddocks or even being ridden during the isolation so giving the horse as much room as possible in his stall is a good idea. Using Classic Equine Equipment’s horse stall designs, you can easily convert two 12 ‘x 12’ stalls into one 12’x 24 stall, and back again when isolation is no longer needed. Locate the isolation stall at one end of the barn so that the horse doesn’t need to walk past healthy horses. Make sure the stall has plenty of ventilation, but do not use an open stall front. You don’t want air-borne germs communicated to healthy horses from a horse hanging his head out in the aisle.

Setting up a foaling stall is similar to the isolation stall. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the stall. Carefully check for any dangers in the stall – put yourself in the mind of a new foal, full of curiosity. Will he get his head stuck in the grill front of a stall? Will he put his hoof in a too low bucket?

Put the mare in the stall at least 3 weeks before her due date so she can get used to it. Stalls should be as roomy as possible so the mare doesn’t accidentally step on the foal. Again, Classic Equine Equipment’s ability to turn two stalls into one gives you that added room when needed. Look for stall fronts that let in plenty of light and fresh air. Consider using a mesh fronts so you can easily keep an eye on the mare and her new foal.

Sugarbush Draft Horse

May 15th, 2013

In the early 1900’s, invention of the automobile and tractor meant that horses were no longer in high demand for farm work. Instead, many of the remaining draft horses were used by carriage companies, often pulling decorative weddings for carriages. Everett Smith of Ohio operated the Sugarbush Hitch Company. Wanting to increase business, Smith thought that a flashier looking horse could make his company more appealing.

Smith turned to the Appaloosa for its flashy appearance and dramatic coat colors. He paired the Appaloosa influence with the best Percheron bloodlines he could find, and bred with the goal of producing a quality draft horse which possessed ideal conformation along with the Appaloosa coloring.

Sugarbush Horses

Smith’s plan was a success, and the horses he bred became known as Sugarbush Horses. Their popularity spread and others began to breed these horses, so Smith created the Sugarbush Draft Horse Registry in 1982. The bloodlines that Smith had originally produced were greatly sought after. At the same time, though, draft horses began to fall out of popularity as people looked for lighter horses which were more comfortable to ride.

Smith continued to breed on a small scale until 2008, when he retired and the Sugarbush Draft Horse Registry relocated to Whitesboro, Texas. The last horses that Smith had bred were sold in the hopes that their new owners would continue the breed. Just one registered stallion remains, named Sugarbush Harley’s Classic O.

Today only twelve Sugarbush Draft Horses remain in existence, making this a seriously endangered breed. Today’s Sugarbush Draft Horses are smaller than the average draft, standing between 15.2 and 16.2 hands and weighing around 1,700 pounds. They are very social and are versatile, making excellent driving or riding horses. And, of course, their characteristic colorful coats make them stand out from the crowd wherever you take them.

For more information on this fascinating breed, visit the Sugarbush Draft Horse Registry’s website.

Check out our Classic Equine Equipment’s Facebook page for more information!

Guest Post: Design for Your Horses’ Sense of Sight

May 14th, 2013

How do horses see?  Horses have a wide field of vision, with blind spots immediately behind their bodies and below their noses.  The ability to see in all directions is invaluable for a horse’s survival in the wild.  On the other hand, because of their wide set eyes, horses have monocular vision on each side.  This limits their depth perception and means that they must see an unfamiliar object from both sides before they can understand whether or not it is a danger.

As animal care architects, we must consider the unique way that horses see and design spaces that help them feel relaxed.  In this month’s post, we will share five useful rules of thumb for designing visually comfortable spaces for horses.

1.  Light the work spaces evenly.  In barns, deep shadows and bright rays of light can be beautiful and comfortable, similar to standing in the dappled shade under a tree.  But in spaces where horses are working or under stress, such as arenas or veterinary spaces, uneven lighting can create anxiety.  Design equine work spaces with regularly placed, unobstructed lighting.  If possible, use lighting that has a spectrum similar to natural sunlight.

2.  Soften and filter natural light.  Fabric roofed arenas make for very comfortable indoor riding spaces because they filter natural light.  The effect is a space that is bathed in soft, bright light.  The idea of filtering natural light can also apply to traditionally constructed structures.  High windows and skylights can be designed with translucent materials to evenly distribute the light in the space, thereby minimizing shadows and glare.

3.  Allow horses to see what is coming.  If you have worked with horses, you know that they prefer not to be surprised.  In arenas and work areas, it is better to locate visible doors at the ends of the space rather than the sides.  This gives the horse a better chance of seeing an object or person arriving with both of its eyes.  Horses can be especially terrified of unexpected sights at the ground level, such as moving garden hoses, plastic bags, and the like.

4.  Design a floor surface that looks solid and even.  Horses are spooked by drains, grates, changes of materials, and other features in the floor surface that are difficult to see and visually comprehend.  Therefore, the walking surfaces should be designed to be even, unobstructed, and uniform.  Drains can be placed to the sides or carefully obscured to reassure the horse that the floor is safe.

5.  Give horses a pleasant view.  Place equine housing in locations where the view is pleasing and reassuring.   Orient views from stalls toward paddocks, pastures, and woods and away from traffic, unloading zones, and utility areas.

In general, it is important to remember that horses are prey animals, so they are very motivated to look for danger in their surrounding environment.  Spaces that are designed with horses’ eyesight in mind will perform better and make for happier horses!

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB is a principal at Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities since 1979.  Heather’s primary area of expertise is the design and management of equine and large animal projects.  She is also highly experienced in the streamlined management of animal shelter projects.  Heather was the Project Manager for the country’s first LEED Platinum animal shelter designed for the City and County of Denver.  Heather speaks regularly about the design of large animal facilities at such conferences as the Veterinary Economics Hospital Design Conference for the Central Veterinary Conference and the American Association of Equine Practitioners Annual Conference.

 

Dealing with Windpuffs

May 13th, 2013

Have you ever had to deal with windpuffs? Do you know what causes them and what they can mean for a horse’s future? While not a significant injury, windpuffs are a sign that your horse has previously stressed his legs, and careful monitoring is necessary to ensure that he stays sound in the future.

What are windpuffs?

windpuff

Windpuffs occur toward the rear of the fetlock joints and appear as swollen areas. They are soft and fluid-filled, and the swelling that you see is the fluid swelling of the tendon sheath which encircles the deep digital flexor tendon. Windpuffs are painless for the horse and are not accompanied by heat – they’re largely cosmetic. Their appearance is fairly common in horses in heavy work, and the condition is typically a chronic one which results from an overstressing or overstraining of the tendon.

Why be concerned?

Generally, a chronic, unchanging case of windpuffs isn’t cause for alarm. As long as the windpuffs are symmetrical, meaning that no one leg shows a windpuff which is significantly larger than another, and your horse is showing no signs of lameness, then the windpuffs are likely harmless and should just be monitored.

It is possible for a chronic condition to be re-injured, though; if your horse ever develops a windpuff which is firm, larger than the others, and/or accompanied by heat or lameness, then you should call your vet to have your horse checked out. Overextending or overstressing the deep digital flexor tendon can aggravate windpuffs, and it’s best to make sure that your horse hasn’t torn the tendon or done other significant damage.

Diagnosis and Treatment

Most windpuffs are harmless, and only require monitoring on your part. Take note of any extra swelling in any of the legs, and pay attention to how your horse moves both in the field and under saddle – is he comfortable and sound?

If the quality of your horse’s performance under saddle starts to decrease unexplainably, and if you notice any changes in his windpuffs, then it’s a good idea to call the vet. The vet might conduct a lameness test, and can also use ultrasound and x-rays to paint a clearer picture of what’s happening in your horse’s legs.

Treatment for windpuffs will vary depending on exactly what your horse is experiencing, but it often includes icing or cold hosing the area, keeping the horse on stall rest for a few days, and wrapping the horse’s legs.

While generally harmless, windpuffs signify the fact that your horse has previously strained or stressed the fetlock area of his legs. You can use this knowledge to your advantage – provide your horse with long, gradual warm ups, keep the footing in your riding rings, pasture, and horse barn well-maintained, and be sure that your horse receives regular visits from the farrier.

Original Source: http://blog.classic-equine.com/2013/05/dealing-with-windpuffs

Establishing Barn Rules

May 10th, 2013

A well thought-out set of rules can keep a barn running safely and effectively.  While rules will vary with each individual facility, there are a number of common areas you should consider in establishing your own set of barn rules.

Safety First

Think-Safety-First

Even if safety rules seem basic, such as closing gates behind you and keeping the door to the feed room closed, cover all of your bases and state the rules so that there are no misunderstandings. Will dogs be allowed on the premises? If so, determine where and when they are allowed, and specify if leashes are required.

Responsibility

Establish just what riders are responsible for. Are they to tack up their horses before lessons? Clean tack? If they will be using common areas, such as a set of cross ties, you might request that they clean up the areas after each use. If your barn has certain hours of operation, be sure to clearly include those, and specify that all duties must be completed within those hours.

Rules of the Ring

horseback-riding

To avoid any conflicts concerning who has use of which riding ring and when, outline this as clearly as possible in the rules so that every rider understands. Will lessons take precedence in a particular ring? If so, consider providing a sign-up sheet to avoid conflicting lesson times. Are there additional areas where riders can school if the main ring is in use? Also address the use of equipment in the ring, such as jumps or cones. Are riders allowed to change the equipment as long as they put it back once they’re finished?

Minors

If you will have minors at your barn, you might consider a separate section of additional rules pertaining to them. Will riders under age 18 ever be permitted to be at the barn alone, or must there always be an adult on the premises? If adult presence will be required, then it might be easiest to specify certain hours during which minors are allowed to be present – hours when you know an adult will be available. Spell out this section of rules as clearly as possible, and be sure to go over them in person with each minor and a parent.

Whatever rules you decide on, post a copy of them in your barn. Provide each rider with a copy; you might ask them to sign a copy for you to keep acknowledging that they’ve read and understand the rules. Put time and thought into your rules now, as having a comprehensive set can help you deal with any conflicts down the line.

 

Barn Biz: Let’s Be Careful Out There

May 9th, 2013

Your horse is one of your most prized possessions, with your tack and equipment a close second.  One of the easiest ways to make sure your barn is free of no smoking in the barnareas or items that could cause harm or injury to a horse or owner is to have a good safety plan in effect.  Routinely check your barn with a critical eye to make sure you are following your plan.

FIRE

  • Do you have “No Smoking” signs posted?  Are they enforced?
  • Are debris, combustible material and weeds cleared at least 30 feet from structures for fire protection?
  • Are fire extinguishers in working order? Place fire extinguishers in all buildings. In large facilities, place fire extinguishers every 40 ft.
  • Inspect all wiring. Older wiring may have damage from weather or rodents.
  • Check all electrical cords.  Appliances and equipment should be unplugged when not in use.
  • Are there cobwebs and dust accumulating behind refrigerators and other appliance, around lights, near electrical sources? If so, clean the area.
  • When possible, hay and shavings should be stored in a separate building. Storing hay in a well ventilated loft is preferable to the floor. If you store hay on the floor, place it on pallets as far from stalls as possible. Keep the areas clean and swept.
  • Replace vegetation with fire resistant plants – NOTE: FIRE RESISTANT DOES NOT MEAN FIREPROOF!  Fire resistant plants do not readily ignite from a flame.

SAFETY

  • Are emergency numbers and information posted near the phone or in the barn aisle? Is the information up-to-date?
  • Boarding facilities should have safety rules clearly posted?
  • Are aisle ways clear of clutter? Any items stored in the aisles should be placed on hooks high enough that a panicked horse will not injure himself. Tack boxes and other items on the floor should not prevent stall doors from opening.  Be sure rakes, manure forks and other barn implements are safely put away.
  • Check stalls for damage to wood surfaces, broken or cracked feeders, protruding nails, etc.
  • Check the floors for damage or uneven surfaces.
  • Look around the bottom of stalls for areas that may be hazardous when a horse rolls.
  • Check latches and door knobs. Are they in good working order? Could a horse escape? Do they pose a hazard? Will tack or horses be hung up on them?
  • Check floors for standing water, slick surfaces and uneven areas.
  • Use safe fencing and keep it well maintained.
  • Check first aid and emergency supply kits. Do you need to replenish supplies? Throw away expired over the counter and prescription medications and replace as needed.secure front gate

SECURITY

  • Use gate access to your farm.  Classic Equine Equipment designs and manufactures Custom Entrance Gates to fit all spaces and requirements – whether farm, residential or commercial. All gates are made with the same high quality steel and attention to detail as our horse stalls. We can provide automatic gate openers as well for a complete entrance system.  And require a pass code to access the property.
  • Control access through doors – feed, tack rooms and other high security areas can have locks on doors installed requiring a key or combination to enter.  Change the lock or combination every so often, especially if you have boarders and one of them leaves.
  • Use grills on all stall windows to discourage entrance by crawling through them. Consider installing a security system on outside doors and windows.
  • Install security lights at farm entrance and around barn doors. Either leave them on from dusk to dawn or install motion detection lights to alert you to intruders.
  • Keep bushes and plants trimmed around windows and doorways.  These can be inviting places for an intruder to hide.
  • Use technology – stall cameras can be mounted in each stall allowing each owner to monitor their horse at any time through the website using a security code.

Following these steps can help insure your peace of mind when you’re away.