Archive for August, 2012

Vital Signs That Are “Vital” To Know For Your Horse’s Health

Thursday, August 30th, 2012

Knowing how your horse acts and reacts when he is feeling good will help you to faster realize when there is something “not right” with him. Every horse owner needs to know what is “normal” for their horse. Being able to report these to your veterinarian when you contact him can help evaluate whether a visit is necessary and/or how quickly your horse needs to be seen.

Get a baseline of your horse’s temperature, pulse and respiration when he is healthy, relaxed and before working him.  You may also want to get additional readings in both summer and winter and after riding to know what is normal for your horse in different circumstances.

What you’ll need:

  • a watch that counts seconds;
  • a thermometer – plastic digital one are best for ease and safety;
  • a stethoscope;
  • a notepad or record book for recording the vital sounds.

TEMPERATURE:

The normal temperature for the horse is 100.0 degrees. However, a horse’s temperature can vary somewhat with the season. During the winter, your horse’s “normal” temperature may drop several degrees, but low temperatures generally are not causes for concern.  On the other hand, summer heat, as well as exercise, can often raise a horse’s temperature a few degrees.  These circumstances must also be taken into account when determining if there is cause for concern.

It is easiest to take your horse’s temperature rectally with a clean digital thermometer. Coating the tip of the thermometer with petroleum jelly can make it easier for you to insert and more comfortable for your horse.  Always tie a string to the end of the thermometer to make sure you can retrieve it.  You can also briefly wrap your horse’s dock in a bandage to make it easier to push the tail hair away to insert the thermometer. Most thermometers will beep when the maximum temperature has been reached.

If your horse’s temperature is over 102 F, you should call your veterinarian.

PULSE:

The pulse rate is taken by listening to the heart, located on the left side of the chest just behind the elbow. You can also take the pulse at the thick artery that runs underneath the cheekbone on either side of your horse’s face.  Place three fingers (never your thumb which has its own pulse) on the artery and press upward and inward.

Using a stephoscope can often make hearing and counting the heart beats easier.  Some people listen to the heart rate for 10 seconds and then multiply by 6, or 30 seconds and multiply by 2.  However, if you have any questions, listen to the pulse rate for the full minute.

The normal pulse rate is 40 beats per minute.  Horses that are fit may have rates as low as 28 so knowing your horse’s condition is important.   Young horses and ponies can sometimes have a bit faster pulse rate.

Rates between 40-60 are considered “serious”, but may be explained by an elevated temperature such as on a very hot day.  Also, if the horse is suddenly frightened or excited, his heart rate can become temporarily elevated on a very temporary.  Wait a few minutes and then recheck to see if the rate comes down when he is more relaxed.  Rates above 80 are considered “critical” and indicate a very serious problem.

However, ANY rate above 40, even 44, should be regarded with suspicion and evaluated in the overall picture of how the horse is feeling.

RESPIRATION:

Respiration is how hard your horse is breathing. Watch his sides as he breathes in and out and count the number of complete breaths.  Deep heavy breathing, or breathing with an extra abdominal effort, abnormal noise, labored breathing, or gasping are all indications of a serious problem.  

The normal rate for horses is between 8-12 breaths per minute. Again, many things can effect this that must be taken into consideration before considering whether it is abnormal.  One common factor is his temperature, excitement or a heavy workout.

OTHER SIGNS:

While temperature, pulse and respiration are the three most common vital signs used to determine your horse’s health, there are other indicators that you may want to check and report to your veterinarian:

  • Mucus Membrane Color: The normal color is pink
  • Capillary Refill Time: After depressing the gums, the color should return within 1-2 seconds.
  • Gut sounds (borborygmus): A horse should have a normal gurgling sound on both sides of the abdomen back near the flanks.
  • Hydration: Pinch and elevate the horse’s skin over the shoulder, then let go.  If it snaps back into place very quickly, your horse is properly hydrated

For a chart that can be posted next to your horse’s stall with instructions on how to take temperature, pulse and respiration, as well as normals and critical values, click HERE.

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West Nile Virus – Horses vs. Humans

Tuesday, August 28th, 2012

If you’re a horse owner, you’ve probably been aware of the West Nile Virus potential for your horse for several years and, hopefully, have given your horse the proper vaccinations.  However, the news departments across the country have been running non-stop stories about cases of human West Nile cases so we decided to find out what facts about West Nile are true about humans and what are true for horses – or both.

FACT:  People and animals can become infected from the bite of certain kinds of mosquitoes that are infected with the virus. Mosquitoes may pick up the virus when they bite, or take a blood meal, from wild birds that are infected with West Nile Virus.

TRUE FOR BOTH

FACT:  Mosquitoes transmit the virus  when biting to take a blood meal.

TRUE FOR BOTH

FACT:  Infection occurs primarily in the late summer or early fall in the northeast and Mid Atlantic regions.

TRUE FOR BOTH

FACT:  Only humans and horses can get West Nile.

FALSE.  In addition to humans and horses, dogs and cats have been found to be susceptible to the disease.

FACT:  Humans and horses can get the virus from other infected mammals.

FALSE FOR BOTH.  Once a mammal is infected, it is considered a “dead end” infection and mosquitoes cannot ingest the virus.

FACT:  There are symptoms to watch for if you think you have West Nile.

FALSE FOR HUMANS  In approximately 80 percent of West Nile virus infections in humans cause no symptoms (also known as “asymptomatic”).  Click HERE for more information on symptoms of West Nile in humans.

TRUE FOR HORSES  Symptoms in horses may include a general loss of appetite and depression, in addition to any combination of the following signs:

  • fever
  • weakness of hind limbs
  • paralysis of hind limbs
  • impaired vision
  • ataxia (weakness)
  • head pressing
  • aimless wandering
  • convulsions (seizures)
  • inability to swallow
  • walking in circles
  • hyper-excitability
  • coma

FACT:  There is a vaccine to prevent West Nile.

FALSE FOR HUMANS.  Also false for dogs and cats.

TRUE FOR HORSES.  Click HERE for recommendations by the American Association of Equine Practitioners on how, when and how often to vaccinate for West Nile.

FACT:  There are steps you can take to eliminate the possibility of mosquitoes, and therefore West Nile.

TRUE FOR BOTH  Mosquitoes by far are the biggest carrier of West Nile.  Mosquitoes breed in standing water – eliminate the standing water and you’ll start eliminating mosquito breeding grounds.  Be sure to:

  • Empty and refill outdoor water troughs or buckets every few days.
  • Turn over plastic wading pools when not in use.
  • Turn over wheelbarrows and don’t let water stagnate in birdbaths.
  • Aerate ornamental pools or stock them with fish. Water gardens can become major mosquito producers if they are allowed to stagnate.
  • Clean and chlorinate swimming pools when not in use. Mosquitoes may even breed in the water that collects on pool covers.
  • Use landscaping to eliminate standing water that collects on your property, especially near manure storage areas. Mosquitoes may breed in any puddle that lasts for more than four days.
  • Clean clogged roof gutters every year. Millions of mosquitoes can breed in roof gutters each season.
  • Most barns have their population of birds and some birds can be beneficial to insect control.  However, if your area is infected with West Nile, consider reducing the number of birds in and around the stable area.  Also, periodically look around the property for dead birds, such as crows.  Use gloves to handle dead birds and place the birds in plastic bags for disposal.
  • In addition, use mosquito spray or topical on yourself and your horses, especially at night.  For more information on best mosquito repellants, click HERE. Consider fly sheets that stop “no see ems” for horses and long sleeves and pants for humans.

For help in assessing mosquito exposure risks on your property and for suggested control practices, contact your county extension office, county Department of Environmental Protection, county Department of Health, or mosquito and pest control company.

 

 

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What Your Farrier (And Your Horse) Want You To Know About Shoeing

Thursday, August 23rd, 2012

As a horse owner, I’m sure you’ve all read books, blogs and articles on how to keep your farrier happy by setting up a great spot in which he can work.  But ask different farriers what they prefer and you are likely to get different answers – and sometimes none of them are mentioned in the books and blogs.  And did anyone ever ask horses what THEY wanted?  Well, I asked my farrier what he and my horses would prefer.

A quiet place is good, but too quiet is not

Some people set up their shoeing area far away from the mainstream noise and activity of the barn.  But if the area is too quiet or is too removed from being near other horses, your horse can become upset.  It may sound odd, but a shoeing area that is too sterile can actually make things harder on your horse.  Remember that horses are herd animals and there is safety in knowing what the rest of the herd is doing.  When he can’t see, smell or hear them, he can start worrying.  Add to that the fact that we are not only tying him up, but also holding up one of his hooves so that he can’t run away and your horse can become downright scared.  This can result in your horse, who was fine being shod at an old stable, but now being a problem when the shoeing place is too isolated at the new place.

Wash racks – great for bathing, not so great for shoeing

Despite the perceived ideal setup of a wash rack (plenty of room, cross ties, off the main aisle), wash racks are actually not a favorite of your horse or your farrier.  First of all, it is often wet and sometimes slippery from recent use.  The floor is typically sloped to aid in drainage – which doesn’t aid your horse in standing on 3 legs during shoeing.  There is also typically that necessary, but pesky metal drain right in the middle of where your horse should be standing.  Finally, many wash racks can have a dark and closed in feeling that can make your horse a bit worried about being tied up in there.

From a farrier’s viewpoint, many boarding facilities are beautiful, but may have been designed to be more people friendly than horse friendly.  Remember that whenever your horse is scared, his first reaction will be either “fight or flight.”  Some horses that experience problems with shoeing can often calm down if they are moved to a brighter, more open place within sight of his horse buddies.  Most farriers would be happier to move to a better area to shoe than to fight with a horse in the “approved” shoeing area.

A word about dogs

Many farriers have dogs, some of whom come out to the barn on visits.  And most farriers tolerate owner’s dogs hanging around and occasionally reaching in to grab a chewy piece of trimmed hoof.   As a dog lover, dogs accidentally stepped on my horses are a farrier’s biggest concern about loose dogs.  They will try to work around your dog, but remember that even the best horses can finally have enough and accidents can happen.  It’s best to leave your dog at home on farrier days.

Help your farrier stick to his schedule

Farriers are on a schedule.  They have a number of horses to shoe in a day and they may be located all across a county. Making sure not to set down a hoof on a nosey dog’s paw, having to go to a paddock to catch a client’s horse and lead him to the shoeing area and dealing with misbehaving horses can sometimes make shoeing a horse take longer.  If he counts on 45 minutes to trim your horse, but now it’s closer to an hour because of all the aforementioned issues, this can ruin his whole day’s schedule. Think about it.   If every horse needs an extra 15 minutes to trim, with just four horses he’s already an hour behind schedule. And that makes for some very unhappy clients who are scheduled later in the day.

While this can vary by farrier, one area you may be able to skip is cleaning your horse’s hooves before shoeing.  Some farriers actually don’t mind the mud and debris as it can provide clues to see how the horse is moving and how the shoes are working.

Finally, here are some definite “dos” to keep your farrier happy.

  • Have your horse available on time for shoeing, preferably in his stall.
  • If it’s summer, make sure your horse has been adequately fly sprayed to keep him from shifting, biting and swishing his tail for relief.  If flies are a problem in your barn, consider a fly spray program in the shoeing area or a fan to keep bugs of both your horse and your farrier.
  • If your horse has a history of being difficult to shoe, be sure that you or a competent handler are available to manage him.
  • Make sure there is plenty of light for your farrier to see what he’s doing – and your horse to feel safe.
  • Wherever you set up your farrier area, make sure it is on level ground.  Having stall mats for both your horse AND FARRIER to stand on are much appreciated on aching joints.
  • Don’t forget small courtesies – offer your farrier a cold or warm drink (depending on the weather), thank him for his excellent work and – of course – pay him as soon as possible!

 

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Protecting Your Barn From Wildfires

Tuesday, August 21st, 2012

Wildfire season is in full swing in most of the United States.  Every year, thousands of acres of land are burned and hundreds of homes and buildings destroyed.  However, every once in awhile a miracle happens – a lone house remains standing, untouched, while the area around it is completely destroyed.  Here are some tips on how you can help better the odds that your barn becomes one of the survivors.

Build with metal or masonry

While we all love the look of wood barns, but if you live in a high fire danger area, you may want to consider a non-wood barn. They come in the same variety of styles as traditional wood barns, but are made out of steel or out of masonry material, such as brick, concrete block, poured cement, and stone. At the very least, consider a metal roof on your barn. Many wildfires start from flying embers landing on roofs and a metal roof can help minimize this.

The interior barn stalls can also be made with fire-resistant materials such as mesh or steel.

Use steel, woven wire or electric fencing rather than wood for paddocks, turnout areas and arenas.

Create a defensible space with fire resistant landscaping.

Establish a “defensible space” of at least 50 feet around your barn.  This is the area where potential fire-spreading fuel has been modified, reduced or cleared to create a barrier and slow the spread of fire.  It also is a space where firefighters can battle the fire safely and efficiently.

Remove wooden picnic tables or patio furniture, dead/dry leaves, plants, grass and weeds and any dead branches.

Replace vegetation with fire resistant plants – NOTE: FIRE RESISTANT DOES NOT MEAN FIREPROOF!  Fire resistant plants do not readily ignite from a flame.  While the plant can be damaged or killed by fire, they do not significantly contribute to a fire’s intensity.  Some fire resistant plants, shrubs and trees include: yarrow, coreopsis, coneflower, lavender, salvia, Russian sage, dwarf burning bush, roses (rosa species), Ponderosa pine, and alder, redbud and flowering dogwood trees.  Most of these are not only fire resistant, but also drought tolerant and animal safe.

If you are considering using wood mulch around your landscaping, consider using less flammable types of mulch, such as gravel or decorative rock or a combination of wood mulch and decorative rock (surround islands of bark mulch around plants by larger areas of gravel or rocks).

Remember the basics of fire prevention

No smoking EVER on the premises.

Keep hay and shavings storage as far away from the barn as possible.

Have electrical wiring regularly checked.

Have several fire extinguishers located throughout the barn and make sure all staff and boarders know how to use them.

Have a fire evacuation plan – if there’s a wildfire, just putting the horses in a paddock away from the barn won’t work.  Line up people with trailers who can move the horses to a safe area.

Have the number for the fire department (and other emergency numbers) located right next to the phone.

While most emergency departments have technology that can get them to your farm, consider writing out the address and directions from the closest fire station and tacking them next to the phone.  May horse owners have forgotten their own phone numbers when calling in an emergency to their vet.

Be safe this fire season by being prepared. To paraphrase Smokey the Bear, “Only You Can Prevent Barn Fires.”

For more information, click HERE for information on “Ready for Wildfire” by California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection.

 

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Don’t Forget The Pre-Purchase Exam When Buying A Horse

Thursday, August 16th, 2012

Your eyes meet across the barn aisle.  Your heart beats a little faster.  And, suddenly, you’re in love.  “Here’s the one I’ve been looking for, ” you think.  But before you ride off happily together into the sunset, consider first having a pre-purchase exam.

One of the best investments you can make BEFORE buying a horse is to have a pre-purchase exam done by a veterinarian* of your choice.  While it’s tempting to forgo the cost of another vet visit, it is in your best interest to have the checkup done by a vet that you know and trust.  It is insurance for you, the buyer, that you are protected and are getting exactly the horse you were promised.

Talk with your vet before the exam about how you plan to use your new horse.  A pre-purchase exam for a broodmare may be a bit different than one for a Grand Prix show jumper.  At the exam, the vet will want the horse to be presented right out of the stall, if possible.  Ideally, the horse will not have been recently shod.  A horse that is warmed up before the vet comes may have lameness issues that won’t be seen.  Lameness issues can also be attributed to the new shoes.

The vet will go over the basics of the horse – check the temperature, respiration and pulse, look at the eyes, teeth, ears, nose and many, many more places, including those specific to mares, stallions and geldings.  The vet will also do a flexion test for soundness on all four limbs and will check hoofs with hoof testers.  He will want to see the horse move at liberty, best done by free lunging the horse, in both directions.  Afterwards, the vet may want to reexamine the horse’s vital signs or flexion.  If there are any questions, the vet may ask the owner’s permission to draw blood or take x-rays.  While some buyers routinely have x-rays done, it may not be necessary and can help keep the pre-purchase exam costs down.  Again, communicating with your vet about how you plan to use the horse is essential.

It is best if you can be present during the pre-purchase exam.  The vet will give you her findings as he goes and you can ask questions or request further investigation.  You will also be provided with a written report.  Remember that no horse is perfect.  Any limitations noted, whether large of small, are to help the buyer find the horse most suitable for the job intended.  Remember, too, that the vet is looking at the horse as he is right now.  He can’t see into the future and cannot foretell how a particular horse will perform in years to come.  Vets don’t give horses a “pass/fail” determination, but will provide you with all the information, good and bad, about the horse’s physical condition so you can make an informed decision.

Click on the links below for videos that offer a visual overview of the PrePurchase exam.

Pre-purchase exam (part 1)

Pre-purchase exam (part 2)

*while we know there are many fabulous female veterinarians out there, for purposes of this article we are referring to veterinarians as “he.”

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Could A Personal Coach Help You Achieve Your Goals?

Tuesday, August 14th, 2012

While your trainer or riding coach is working on developing you and your horse on the outside, a personal coach can help you develop on the inside. A personal coach will help you set better goals and strategize ways to meet your goals more quickly and with less stress.  They offer a safe and supportive environment where you can “try on” new ideas or look at other areas in your life that may be holding you back from reaching your goal.

If you watched the Olympics (and who didn’t?), you often saw athletes with several coaches around them.  Some help with nutrition, others with stress management and still others with performance.  Coaches can be extremely helpful in helping one reach their goals.  Now what about you and your goals?

Maybe you set some realistic riding goals for yourself for this year, but somehow your riding is not coming together the way you want.  Or maybe your goal was starting a horse-related business, but you’re afraid to make the leap.  You want to move forward, but you feel “stuck.” Maybe it’s time for you to have your own personal coach.

For example, do you feel you’re not able to get in as much practice time as you’d like due to commitments at work or at home? A personal coach can help you simplify your life, set boundaries and choose only those activities which help you reach your riding goal. Having a hard time finding the money to start or expand your business?  There are personal coaches who specialize in business who can help get you on the right financial track for a new career.  A personal coach can also you in other areas such as stress reduction, health and fitness issues, and career redirection.

Personal coaching is done on a one-on-one basis.  While listening and strategizing are part of the personal coaching experience, the most important part of the process is developing an action plan.  Even if it is only one small step, your personal coach will challenge you to take some action to help you meet your goal.  And your coach will hold you accountable for the action you agree to take. Remember that the goal of the personal coach is to support you and help you succeed.  As Tom Landry, the legendary football coach said, “A coach is someone who makes you do what you don’t want to do so you can be who you want to be.”

Personal coaching is often done by telephone, so you can be coached in the comfort of your own home!  It can also be done via email. If you prefer and if distance is not a problem, it can also be done in person. A session usually lasts 45-60 minutes and most personal coaches follow-up with emails between sessions and/or are available by phone if you have a question, problem or just want to celebrate a victory!  The cost for coaching varies, but typically costs no more than a private riding lesson.

Many personal coaches offer a complimentary session where you can find out more about coaching as well as the coach.  During this introductory meeting, you will identify the areas on which you would most like to work and see if the coach’s style is a good fit for you. You may prefer someone who has an equestrian background, although the same coaching principals apply whether the client is a rider, a business owner or has career questions.  If you wish, personal coaches are willing to work with other members of your support team, such as your riding coach or members of your family. However, you must give your personal coach permission to do so, as the coaching process is always kept strictly confidential.

While currently there are no requirements for using the title “coach”, the International Coaches Federation (ICF), a worldwide non-profit resource for coaching, has developed high professional standards of ethics and conduct for coaches, and a stringent accreditation process for coach training institutes.  They offer a coach referral service on their website.

Good personal coaches give you straight advice and will challenge you to give your best.  A good personal coach will let you use them as a sounding board or cheerleader.  Finally, a good coach is always there for you.

 

Posted in Horse Sports, Riding | No Comments »

Summer Is A Great Time To Try Something New With Your Horse!

Thursday, August 9th, 2012

Dressage, Eventing and Jumping may be the equestrian “star” events of the Olympics, but there are plenty of opportunities for riders and their horses of every age and skill to experience the “thrill of victory.”  Here are three sports that you may want to consider trying.

WESTERN DRESSAGE:

Western Dressage grew out of the concerns of top Western trainers in the training horses to make suitable mounts.  They had seen what the concepts of  cadence, balance, and carriage from classical dressage had done for the English sports and wanted to incorporate them to help Western riders bring out the best in their horses.  The Western Dressage Association of America (WDAA) was formed to help codify these principles, establish an educational program and develop a method of testing.

The Northwest Chapter of the Western Dressage Association explains it best:

When we combine Western Horsemanship principles and Classical training to ride our horses, we develop a well rounded and balanced partnership. We build a brave well broke horse. Is this discipline only for western horses? No! This is an all inclusive discipline. Western Dressage will help ALL horses to develop and it will provide progressive, methodical training while giving valuable feedback methods for the Western Dressage Rider.

What is really unique about Western Dressage is that it’s a meld of both dressage and western whereby you get the Western horse that can stand quietly, not get easily spooked and have superior ground work combined with a connected horse that is engaged and balanced for the optimal partnership between horse and rider.

For more information, including local chapters, clinics and the actual tests, click HERE:

To see what Western Dressage is all about, view the video below:

EQUINE SOCCER:

This game is taking the equestrian world by storm, especially in the Midwest.  Anyone of any age can play.  You can ride any equine, including donkeys and mules.  No special tack is required – or no tack!  The game is played usually in 60m x 100 m arena and the rules are almost exactly like those in human soccer.  The only differences are that the ball is much, much bigger (and softer) and there are certain rules as to who can kick the ball – at the beginner level, the rider can kick, but at the advanced level, only the horse can move the ball.

The goal (pardon the pun) of this sport is to develop a relationship with your horse, improve riding skills and have fun!  For more information, contact the American Equine Soccer League website by clicking HERE.

To see Equine Soccer in action, view the video below:

COMPETTIIVE TRAIL RIDING

A Competitive Trail Ride (CTR) is not a timed event like endurance where the fastest time wins.  It is probably closer to Eventing in that riders are out on the trail one at a time and negotiate obstacles.  There are also mandatory vet checks.  And, like Eventing, success comes from the trust and communication between horse and rider to safely complete the course.   A CTR is usually held on a weekend and can run one, two or even three days.  The competitors usually cover a distance of 15-40 miles per day.

In the United States and Canada, as well as in other countries, there are several organizations that sanction competitive trail riding. In the United States, they include North American Trail Ride Conference (NATRC).  To find out more information, click HERE.

To see an overview of a NATRC Competitive Trail Ride, view the video below:

You may never win a Gold medal, but you and your horse will have lots of fun and build an even better relationship.

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Creating the Dressage Musical Freestyle

Tuesday, August 7th, 2012

Stephen Colbert calls it “horse ballet” and he’s not far off. The power and elegance of dressage combined with the beauty of appropriate music can turn our sport into art – like figure skating or, yes, even ballet.

The Dressage Grand Prix Freestyle is coming up in the 2012 London Olympics and if there’s one thing you can watch, this would be it. Unlike the dressage tests like the Grand Prix and Grand Prix Special, every freestyle will be different. However, jus t like figure skating, all freestyles must contain certain movements to show the level of training of the horse and rider. To see a copy of the Grand Prix Freestyle score sheet, click HERE.

If you watch and listen carefully, you’ll notice that different riders use different types of music, based on their horse. A rider with a big, powerful horse may use music that is more majestic. A rider with a smaller, finer-boned horse may use music that is lighter and “airy.” The choice of music is probably the most important part of the freestyle, even more important than the choreography. In fact, there is a specific score for the music and the interpretation. To evaluate your horse’s way of going to different music, riders will often video having their horse ridden at all the gaits and movements they will use. They may even put a different color boot or polo wrap on one of the front legs to help visually see the cadence of foot falls and how it matches up to the music. After the video is made, you can try different types of music and see what best fits your horse’s way of moving. This is often the most difficult thing for new freestyle choreographers to embrace. They have a favorite piece of music that they desperately want to ride to. However, it may not be the best music to show off your horse and choreography. The music rarely, if ever, contains vocals as they can be too distracting when watching the artistic interpretation of horse and music. It is also rare for one piece of music to fit your whole freestyle, so be prepared to use different types of music, though you’ll notice they are usually in the same genre, e.g. all classical, all show tunes, all Big Band.

At the Grand Prix level, some of the riders have music choreographed especially for their freestyle. This is the case for Charlotte Dujardin who rode her record breaking 90.65% freestyle in July to music composed by Tom Hunt.

Here’s some expert advice from Tom on designing your own freestyle:

“My advice to anyone starting out would be to find music that really suits the personality and characteristics of your horse. Once you have a style of music that you like, whether it’s classical or pop, it is important to try and create a theme for the freestyle. That can be a musical theme that is repeated throughout the routine or music from a show soundtrack for example. It’s important that there’s a connection linking the music choices together so that the freestyle makes sense as a whole piece. This will also make it easier for audiences to stay engaged with the overall experience of the freestyle.

“Getting to grips with the differences in tempo of your horse’s paces is crucial. Make a video of your floorplan and, with a metronome, take some time to work out the BPM (Beats Per Minute) of each pace and work with music choices that complement the horse’s tempo, style and rhythm. If you have a big horse with powerful movement it is important to use music that emphasizes these characteristics.

“Another good piece of advice is to arrange the music to highlight the changes in the floorplan / choreography. This may sound obvious but it can really help a rider stay on the beat if they know where they need to be at any given point in the music. Understanding the phrasing of music can help you with this aspect when it comes to putting the music to your floorplan.”

While anyone can create and ride a musical freestyle, the United States Dressage Federation recommends that you ride at a level BELOW what you are currently showing in regular dressage. For example, if you are showing at 2nd Level, you should create a freestyle for 1st Level or Training Level.

So for all you frustrated “Dancing with the Stars” wannabes, here’s your chance to show off your “Dances with Hooves.”

Posted in Horse Sports, Olympics | No Comments »

Rich Fellers & Flexible – West Coasters Winning Big

Friday, August 3rd, 2012

When you read about successful riders, whether in dressage, jumping or eventing, the majority of them have their training barns centered on the East coast.  Many of the premiere horse shows in the United States take place on the Eastern half of the country – the Rolex 3 Day in Lexington, KY, the Winter Equestrian Festival in Wellington, FL and Dressage at Devon in Devon, PA.  But tucked away in the Pacific Northwest, Rich Fellers of Wilsonville, OR has been quietly and consistently winning everything.

Born and raised in Oregon, Rich started riding at age 10 when his stepmother Cheryl started giving him riding lessons.  His first horse was a two-year-old Appaloosa that he received for his birthday. The pair quickly grew close with the help of Fellers’ mother and local riding instructors. The short, stocky horse had a talent for jumping, and the pair eventually became winners from the West Coast U.S. Grand Prix circuit to Spruce Meadows in Canada. In 1983, Fellers turned professional and began training horses for other owners.

He met and married his wife, Shelley, in 1987 while operating a show jumping stable in southern California. In 1989, the couple moved north to Oregon to train privately for Harry and Mollie Chapman while the private job and quieter lifestyle of Oregon allowed the couple to start a family. Son Christopher was born in 1991 and daughter Savannah in 1994.

While northwest Oregon is not exactly known for its international grand prix riders, Rich champions the area. “Wilsonville, Oregon is a great place for training horses,” he says. “The weather is mild. The grass is plentiful and green year round. The terrain is soft rolling hills and valleys, which are helpful for developing fitness and balance. We put a lot of focus on flat work, jumping fundamentals and maintaining happy, fresh horses.” Still, Whip ‘n’ Spur Farm, the Wilsonville training facility owned by J.R. Swan, has easy highway access to major show venues like Spruce Meadows and Thunderbird in Canada, as well as those in California.

Rich’s rocket ride to the top of the sport started when long-time supporters, Harry and Mollie Chapman, purchased Flexible, a chestnut seven year old Irish Sport Horse stallion.  It took awhile, but the now sixteen year old Flexible has “figured the sport out.”  Rich says, “It’s getting to the point where it’s very unlikely that we’re going to make a mistake. I don’t know if I’ve ever felt that confident with a horse in my career.”

Rich has always put his horses first.  His “wonder-horse” Flexible is a survivor – twice returning from the brink after being written off due to accident and injury but both times fighting back to good health. In 2012, at sixteen years old, Flexible was the oldest horse at the Rolex FEI World Cup in The Netherlands, but showed great style and heart when he and Rich became the first World Cup winner from the United States in 25 years.

But being the World Cup winner was not a guarantee to be named to the US Olympic Equestrian team.  Rich and Flexible still had to qualify at two of the four USET observation events.  Not only did Rich and Flexible qualify, but they won all of the events in which they participated at both Del Mar, CA and Spruce Meadows in Canada.

Despite his age and the grueling schedule, Flexible has remained sound with minimal care. No chiropractors or special tack.  Regular shoes, routine shots and vet checkups and a simple diet of hay/pasture, rolled oats and a few supplements.  Says Rich,” the Irish Sport Horse breed is inherently hardy.”  The key to maintaining soundness in an older horse is consistency.  Riding Flexible five days a week, the vast majority of the time spent on flatwork, helps keep his joints moving and his body, well, flexible.  Hmmm – think that’s how he got his name?

Posted in Horse Health, Horse Sports, Olympics | No Comments »

Keeping Your Horse Healthy When Hay is Scarce

Thursday, August 2nd, 2012

If you’ve watched the news these last few weeks, you know that excessively high temperatures and little rain, sometimes followed by too much rain, and is playing havoc with farmers and their crops.  These crops especially include corn, oats and, most importantly, hay.  Horse owners can expect hay prices to rise and continue rising over the next year.  Hay may also become scarce and of lower quality.  Those horse owners who keep their horse on pasture may also find that drought conditions are making it harder to maintain nutritional grazing.

Forage hay and pasture) is necessary to provide fiber to help keep the horse’s gut health intact. Forage should represent 1.5% to 2% of a horse’s bodyweight in roughage.  If hay becomes scarce, a fiber alternative such as beet pulp can be used.  Bridgett McIntosh, PhD, assistant professor and horse extension specialist at the University of Tennessee, says beet pulp is widely available and nutritious. “The nutrient content of beet pulp is similar to good quality forage and one pound of beet pulp has the same amount of calories as one pound of oats.”

McIntosh also feels that soybean hulls are another option. A soybean processing by-product, soybean hull pellets have a similar nutrient composition as good quality hay and can be used to replace up to 75% of hay in a horse’s diet.  She goes on to caution that any changes to your horse’s diet should be made gradually.

Sarah Ralston, VMD, PhD, Dipl. ACVN, associate professor in the Rutgers University Department of Animal Sciences, suggests that horse owners also consider hay-based cubes as an alternate source of forage.

To ensure that your horse is receiving all his daily nutrients that he may have normally obtained from hay or pasture, Carey Williams, PhD, extension specialist in equine management at Rutgers University recommends adding a grain supplement with concentrated levels of protein, vitamins, and minerals.  Some “complete feeds” are meant to be fed WITH forage so be sure to check the labels and find one that is a “stand alone” product.

Remember, too, this winter that horses, especially older horses who may not move around as much, use the digestion of hay to help them keep warm.  You may want to consider blanketing this winter if forage is in short supply.

In addition, if you keep your horses on pasture, be sure to use good pasture management practices.  Routine mowing and harrowing of the pastures to keep pastures nutritious and parasite free are important.  Using rotational grazing (moving horses from pasture to pasture when the grass gets overgrazed) will also keep your pastures healthy.  Remember to set up a sacrifice area this winter to keep horses from trampling your pasture when it is wet.  Hoofs can do a lot of damage to wet ground and next spring you may end up with more weeds than pasture.

Finally, if you find that the quality of hay in your area isn’t what your horse is used to, you may want to consider having your veterinarian do a dental exam and possible teeth floating on your horse.  If you end up having to feed your horse more “stemmy” hay, your horse may have difficulty chewing and digesting it and this can lead to colic

If you find a good supply of hay in your area and have room to store it, it’s not too early to start stockpiling hay for winter feeding.  One of the best ways to avoid worrying about having enough hay is to plan ahead.

Posted in Barn Management, Horse Health | No Comments »