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Archive for September, 2012

Preventing and Treating Thrush

Thursday, September 27th, 2012

Thrush loves to live in the moist airless clefts of a horse’s frog and other tissue. Winter is one of thrush’s favorite times of year because it thrives in wet, dirty bedding and areas where mud, mixed with manure, is found. So obviously the best way to prevent thrush is to try to keep your horse on dry, clean ground as much as possible. One way is to use Classic Equine Equipments stall mats under your bedding to help keep the stall dry. Stall mats can also be used in paddocks or in entry areas to the barn or stall. Instead of walking in the mud, your horse can step on the clean and dry stall mat.

Creating mud free turnouts is also important. Despite the weather, horses seem to be happiest when outside so will spend time in their paddocks even in the rain and snow. This leads to mud and manure becoming mixed – a perfect breeding ground for thrush. Consider using Classic Equine Equipment’s Stable-ity Grid, an interlocking grid like flooring system. Adding your gravel or other material on top of the Stable-ity Grid keeps it from mixing with the dirt below and ultimately becoming a wet dirt-gravel (and sometimes manure) mess.

Many people who have a horse with thrush are embarrassed about the condition as they may feel they aren’t taking proper care of their horse. But thrush is also associated with chronic lameness, hoof imbalance due to poor conformation, a complication of an illness or an after-effect of a hoof abscess.

The signs of thrush are unmistakable and likely to hit your nose first. Thrush has a very strong odor that comes from dead, rotting tissue. You will usually also see a dark-colored slimy substance along the edge of the frog. A case of thrush is not life-threatening, but left untreated the infection can spread to under the sole and penetrate the soft tissue of the hoof, including the laminae. Even certain types of footing like shredded wood can cause problems – as the wood breaks down, its acidity mixes with the pH of the soil and that can encourage bacteria to grow. Add water and you have a recipe for thrush.

It doesn’t take long for a case of thrush to go from benign to severe so attack it as soon as it’s discovered. You treat thrush by removing as much dead tissue as possible, kill the organisms that are causing the infection, and reduce the horse’s contact with wet bedding or ground. Your farrier or veterinarian is best equipped to pare away the dead and dying tissue. They can also help you determine how severe the thrush is and this can help you make a decision as to what thrush treatment product to use. Many of the products have the same ingredients, but one brand may be better at treating your horse’s particular organism that another. Use the solution liberally, but carefully as it can stain your hands and clothing.

Your veterinarian may also suggest that you soak the hoof daily in a mixture of warm water and Epsom salts to open and drain deeper pockets of infection. Keeping the hoof clean between soakings is important so applying a protective boot or by wrapping it. Your veterinarian may also prescribe antibiotics and possibly a tetanus booster.

Prevention is the key to avoiding thrush this season, but quick treatment can get your horse “back on his feet” as soon as possible.

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Coping with Choke

Tuesday, September 25th, 2012

Unlike choking in people, choke in horses does not interfere with his breathing. It typically occurs when an obstruction, usually feed or hay, blocks the horse’s esophagus. If the blockage isn’t removed, it can cause damage to the esophagus. With its inability to swallow, it becomes difficult for horse’s to drink water and they can become dehydrated. Even more dangerous, the feed can spill into the horse’s pharynx, trachea and lungs, causing aspiration pneumonia.

Common signs of choke are coughing, stretching or straining of the neck, frequent attempts to swallow and dribbling of food or saliva from the nostrils. While it is distressing to watch your horse struggle, in mild cases of choke where the horse stands quietly, eventually the naturally produced saliva will soften the mass enough to enable swallowing the lump. If your horse seems restless, consider giving him a sedative what will also help relax the esophageal muscles. Make sure additional food is removed from his stall as this will only compound the problem.

In more severe cases, a veterinarian may carefully flush water into the esophagus through a stomach tube to soften the mass. Though it rarely happens, the mass may prove too stubborn to be safely cleared at the barn and a trip to the hospital may be indicated. Once the excitement if over, keep monitoring your horse to see if he develops a cough, fever or runny nose up to a few days after the episode. This can be a sign of aspiration pneumonia. After an instance of choke, a horse’s esophagus may still be sore – feeding a bran mash is an option.

The most common cause of choke is due to a horse not chewing his food completely. This can be done by a horse with a badly formed mouth or by one with poorly maintained teeth. In both cases, the horse is unable to completely masticate his food, leaving it in big chunks that can get caught in his throat. The best prevention is to have your horse’s teeth checked frequently by your veterinarian (yearly for most horses, twice yearly for senior horses).

Some horses become excited or fearful during feed time, perhaps having had an experience where other horses rushed to the food, especially grain, and he was pushed out and had to go hungry. Even though your horse may now be fed in his stall, that fear of missing out on his food can still cause him to rush and gulp his grain. There are several ways to prevent this. The first is to always feed your horse some hay first before feeding grain. Forage will help take the “edge” off his hunger and he may be more willing to eat his food slowly. Another option is to feed on the ground in a flat feeder pan. Put big rocks in the pan and then add grain. The rocks will force your horse to eat more slowly as he picks his way around the rocks. There are also feeder pans especially designed with rubber “nubs” that simulate the rocks. Do NOT, however, ever feed your horse grain while he is having a farrier visit or riding in a trailer. Some people think that having something eat will help keep the horse calm, but he may still be too nervous to properly chew his food.

If your horse has a hard time chewing or if the hay or grain is especially course, you can wet the food to soften it. You still have to make sure your horse isn’t bolting the food, but the pieces can be more easily chewed when wet. For hay, you can also use chopped hay products to make chewing easier.

Finally, if you know your horse is susceptible to choke, be careful when feeding treats. Large chunks of apples and carrots can just as easily lodge in his throat and are more difficult to swallow. Cut these and make sure that all treats are no larger than your thumb. Cut thick treats like carrots lengthwise, too. Caution others or put a sign up in your horse’s stall to not feed him treats.

Whenever you feed your horse, as a precaution keep an eye on him for a few minutes to make sure he has completely chewed and swallowed his hay, grain and/or treats.

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Made In America: The Morgan Horse

Thursday, September 20th, 2012

Justin Morgan was a teacher, composer, businessman, and horseman who had moved to Randolph, Vermont in 1788. He purchased a bay colt, born in 1789 and named him Figure. This colt was the founding sire of the Morgan breed. As Figure grew, his compact muscular body and stylish way of moving began to be noticed by many of the pioneer farmers and settlers. Soon word of his beauty, strength, speed, hardiness, endurance, and gentle disposition spread amidst the small New England towns. His ability to outwalk, outtrot, outrun, and outpull other horses were legendary. His stud services were offered throughout the Connecticut River Valley and various Vermont locations over his lifetime. The horse later came to be identified by the name of this particular owner, and “the Justin Morgan horse” evolved into the name of the breed.

Morgans worked alongside their owners clearing fields and forests. When the week’s work was done, they provided transportation to Saturday market and Sunday meeting. In addition, they pulled stagecoaches throughout New England. In the 1840′s several breeders in Vermont and western New Hampshire began efforts to concentrate the Morgan lines. By locating second, third, and fourth generation descendants of the original Morgan horse, they established the foundations of the breed.

At the beginning of the sport of harness racing, Morgans set world-trotting records. The majority of Morgans, however, did their daily work helping their owners willingly and efficiently. They were highly regarded as general-purpose horses capable of performing a wide variety of tasks. During the Civil War, the highly desired Morgans served as cavalry mounts and artillery horses, including the First Vermont Cavalry, a fighting unit comprised entirely of Morgans. Sadly, of the more than 1200 horses that participated in the Civil War, only 200 survived the war.

In 1907, the US Department of Agriculture established the US Morgan Horse Farm in Middlebury, Vermont for the purpose of perpetuating and improving the Morgan breed and the farm was later transferred to the Univeristyof Vermont. The first breed registry was begun in 1909. In 1909, the Morgan Horse Club was founded, later changing its name to the American Morgan Horse Association. The breed standard for height ranges from 14.1 to 15.2 hands (57 to 62 inches, 145 to 157 cm), with some individuals over and under. Registered Morgans come in a variety of colors although they are most commonly bay, black and chestnut. Less common colors include gray, roan, dun, silver dapple, palomino, buckskin and cremello.

The Morgan is easily recognized by his proud carriage, upright graceful neck, and distinctive head with expressive eyes. Deep bodied and compact, the Morgan has strongly muscled quarters. But more than its looks, it is the Morgan’s intelligence, willingness, zest for life, and good sense blended with soundness of limb, athleticism, and stamina that makes the breed so popular. In addition, Morgan thriftiness and longevity have made this breed a good bargain for more than 200 years – easy to love and affordable to own.

Morgans are noted for their small ears set above a broad forehead with large, kind eyes, tapered muzzle and expressive nostrils, an arched neck set on a well angled shoulder, broad chest, short back; deep, compact bodies set on legs with flat, dense bone; round croup, and round, hard hooves. Their proud bearing gives them a distinctive beauty that catches the eye of all.

The Morgan horse is free moving and calm under western tack or elegant and aristocratic ridden in English style. A tractable temperament allows the Morgan to excel when driving in single or multiple hitches. Companionable and comfortable on a quiet pleasure ride anywhere open skies beckon, working as a sensible partner in a long day of ranch work or endurance riding, waiting alert and ready to enter a show ring, or performing in formal riding disciplines, the Morgan is a versatile horse within a versatile breed. The Morgan horse agreeably adapts to his owner’s life style.

This Made in America breed can be found throughout the world.

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Boots and Bandage Basics

Tuesday, September 18th, 2012

You’ve probably noticed that some horses wear boots or bandages on their lower legs when ridden. Although they can provide some minimal support to the horse’s tendons and ligaments, boots and bandages are primarily used for protection of the horse from himself.

Sometimes a horse needs to be protected from himself. Because of his conformation, his hind legs may brush against each other or he may even kick himself when he is cantering. A horse with a long stride can accidentally step on the back of his front feet at the trot. While a horse’s bare hoof can cause damage, those shod with metal horse shoes can cause a severe gash or bruise. When a horse does strenuous work that involves jumping or sudden stops and starts, boots or bandages may help protect the delicate tendons in his legs from stress or injury.

But, not all horses require wearing boots. Many new riders put on wraps or boots because everyone else seems to be doing it. If you don’t ride your horse in high-risk movements or if your horse doesn’t seem to have an issue with scrapes or cuts, you can leave off the protective wrapping. If you don’t know if you should put protective gear on your horse’s legs, ask a knowledgeable instructor what she thinks. Explain the sort of work you do with your horse and let her take a look at his conformation. An experienced instructor will be able to tell if your horse needs boots or bandages. And, more importantly, she will show you the proper way to put them on. Improperly applied boots and bandages can actually do more damage than good.

Some of the more common wraps for legs are:

Splint Boots (Brushing Boots)

Splint boots have a thick and/or hard plate that covers the inside of a horse’s lower leg. The plate protects a horse when he hits the inside of one leg with the opposite hoof. When a horse hits himself with the other hoof, it can cause nasty cuts on the inside of the leg. These cuts may take a long time to heal. Splint boots are probably the most widely used boots by horse people.

When putting a splint boot on, fit it slightly higher around the leg, then slide it down so the leg hair doesn’t get ruffled up and cause rubs. Many people fasten the bottom strap first so the boot doesn’t slip while you are securing it.

Bell Boots (Over-Reach Boots)

Bell boots sit on the bottom of the horse’s foreleg, around the coronary band at the top of the hoof. They are designed to fit the contours of the pastern and heel area. Bell boots are used on the front hooves and they help protect the front heels from getting nicked by the back hooves. Bell boots are made of rubber or stretchy material. Some have to be pulled on over the hoof and others have Velcro fastenings. They should not be so long that your horse trips over them or they interfere with his movement. Correct sizing is important.

Exercise Bandages or Polo Wraps

Exercise bandages are stretchy wraps that give support to the tendons in a horse’s lower legs. They tend to be used when a horse is in strenuous work, or if he has suffered from tendon problems in the past. They are wrapped around the lower leg, and are usually secured with a Velcro strap.

Putting on a bandage properly is a skill that takes time to learn. If the bandage is not stretched out properly with the right tension or if it is wrapped incorrectly, it could hurt your horse’s leg instead of supporting it. Ask an instructor to show you how to wrap a leg and then practice, practice, practice until you get it right.

Sports Medicine Boots

Sports Medicine boots were developed specifically to address the prevention of suspensory injuries while at the same time protecting the soft tissue from cuts, abrasions and contusions caused by impacts to the legs by hooves and various other hazards. They can be used on all four legs and consist of a neoprene-type material to provide cushioning and are secured with a Velcro strap that helps provide support.

The best part about boots and wraps are that they come in alot of great colors and can make your riding “look” distinctive. But check with your discipline rule book – not all show classes allow your horse to wear this protective gear during competition. Make sure your horse is used to working both with and without his legwear. And always make sure your horse’s wraps and boots are clean and dry so as not to irritate his skin.

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Made In America: Barn Pros, Inc.

Thursday, September 13th, 2012

When Classic Equine Equipment started looking for a company that could also provide our clients with quality built barns, they selected Barn Pros, Inc. The professional collaboration resulted in providing not only our full Classic line of equipment, but also a quality barn structure. Barn Pros, Inc. was selected because of their commitment to quality work and their reputation for providing excellent customer service – just like Classic Equine Equipment!

Founded in 1987, Barn Pros, Inc. of Monroe, WA has delivered hundreds of barn, barn home, arena and garage packages across the US and Canada. Built to accommodate your horses in the utmost style, safety and comfort, the Barn Pros, Inc. pre-engineered barn package – outfitted with quality Classic products – offers a streamlined and complete “one-stop-shop” for equine enthusiasts searching for a smart solution to their needs. And with Barn Pros, Inc.’s Limited Lifetime Structural & Hardware Warranty, you know it’s built to last.

A high-quality modular kit has extensive benefits. Architectural fees are eliminated, costs are carefully controlled and the materials are delivered directly to your site, giving you an elegant and cost-effective solution. Barn Pros, Inc. offers a variety of floor plans and a multitude of options for your barn. Only carefully chosen, select-grade, kiln-dried Pacific Northwest lumber is utilized with the Barn Pros, Inc. kit.

At the Barn Pros, Inc. facility, structural components are manufactured, assembled, wrapped and loaded onto semi-trucks for delivery to your property. When your kit arrives, you’ll find that the building process moves along quickly and smoothly because everything you need to complete your barn – excluding nails, roofing materials and concrete – is on-site in a well-organized fashion for immediate use. Barn Pros, Inc.’ nation-wide builder network will help you greatly – the list has many competent and experienced contractors for you to choose from.

Located in the Pacific Northwest, Barn Pros, Inc. has a commitment to “green building.” Building with wood has many environmental advantages:

Less energy is used to produce wood products and the processing creates less air and water pollution than other common building products.
Wood uses the sun’s energy to regenerate itself in a continuous sustainable cycle – and is the only major building material that is renewable.
Wood is a natural insulator. Wood keeps your building cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter – operating costs such as heating are greatly reduced.
Wood is a renewable material and does not require as much energy – or produce as much pollution – in the manufacturing process.
Because of these factors, wood has an ultra-low carbon footprint.

Create your dream barn! Invest in a Classic Package – choose a Barn Pros, Inc. barn model with these Classic Equine Equipment upgrades:

• Pine-wrapped walls, ceilings and soffits
• Widow’s peaks on both gable ends
• Full timber truss packages
• Six-foot dormers
• Hand-made jumbo cupolas
• Cedar board and batten on gable ends and dormers
• Your choice of Classic Equine Equipment such as stall fronts, breezeway doors, Dutch doors, hayloft doors and partitions

But don’t stop there! Your horses don’t have to be the only ones comfortable in their Barn Pros, Inc. facility. Barn Pros, Inc. also offers the option of creating a beautiful living space within your barn – a well-designed, professionally engineered residence that can be customized and outfitted to meet your specific needs and tastes. Whether you want pine-covered walls and ceilings or a simple drywall, Barn Pros, Inc. can easily meet your needs.

Whether you’re considering an upgrade to your current barn, an addition or a brand new barn (lucky you!), Barn Pros, Inc. and Classic Equine Equipment can help you! Visit the Classic Equine Equipment web site and see our idea gallery.

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Warm-Up Your Horse To Prevent Injuries

Tuesday, September 11th, 2012

Whether you’re a competitive rider or just go out for the occasional trail ride, warming up your horse before riding can help prevent injuries later. Pre-ride safety can start even before you get on. If you are working in an arena, check the area for holes that need to be filled or big rocks that can cause your horse to stumble. When grooming your horse, make sure there are no cuts or loose shoes or other indications that your horse isn’t 100%. Finally, when tacking up, make sure that your tack doesn’t have any weak areas, such as stirrup leathers or the throatlatch that can break while you’re riding.

Once you’re on your horse, you’re probably like many riders who don’t really have a warm up plan but just amble around the arena. Or you’re eager to get on the trail and figure you’ll warm up as you go. But to really make sure your horse is warmed up on both sides, at all gaits and is listening to you, you should take a systematic approach to your warm-up to ensure that your horse is really ready to go.

Warm up gradually and thoroughly, making sure you stretch and supple your horse on both sides. Check that your horse is listening to you and your aids. Keeping him moving will help not only help warm him up, but will help keep his focus on you as you start asking more or take off down the trail. With a systematized warm-up, you’ll know when your horse is ready to go, while if you just wander around, you can never be sure.

Start with five minutes of walking and put your horse on a 20m circle. Always work your horse’s easier side (and they all have one) first. Make sure he is bending around your leg to make a true circle. While you are walking, do some stretching of your own and/or check your riding position. You can change direction through the circle (making a figure eight) to work the other side. Make sure you do the same sequence at the walk on each side.

Move on to 10 minutes of trotting. Always start with a posting trot to let your horse’s back warm up as well. At first, use the whole arena and encourage your horse to trot out down the long side or across the arena. Later, you can put him on a 20 meter circle and start asking for him to come on the bit. You can also start adding some canter work once your horse is on the bit, relaxed and listening to you. Once you are cantering smoothly, work on transitions – canter to trot, trot to walk, walk to canter, etc. Change rein often to make sure you are working both sides of your horse.

Finally, add in some additional bending exercises like let yields and shoulder in. This is a great test to see if you and your horse have it all together. By the end of this warm-up, you should be able to feel your horse moving from behind, that he is relaxed through the back and soft in both reins.

At the end of your ride, don’t forget to cool down your horse as well. Most of this can be done riding at the walk on a long rein. But you may also want to add some easy bending exercises like let yielding to stretch out those muscles after a hard workout. As always, make sure your horse is no longer sweating before you finish your ride. You can also help your horse stretch after a workout with “carrot stretches” and others. To learn more about how to stretch your horse, click HERE for a great video.

Like athletes or dancers who stretch both before and after a workout, warming up/cooling down your horse each time you ride is essential to his well being. To keep your horse fit between rides, consider Classic Equine Equipment’s FullStride Treadmill!

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Made In America – Classic Equine Equipment Products

Friday, September 7th, 2012

There have been a lot of stories in the news lately about bringing/keeping jobs in America by purchasing products made in America. We just wanted to take this opportunity to let you proudly know that Classic Equine Equipment stalls ARE made in America!

All of our steel products are made at our manufacturing plant in Fredericktown, MO. By manufacturing products in our Missouri facility, we can control quality while creating beautiful, safe and functional products, from the elegantly designed stall components to the industry leading FullStride Treadmill.

So how do our stalls go from this

to this?

We stock thousands of feet of material in our warehouse – from square tubing, round bars, mesh, flat stock, etc. We stock both pre-galvanized steel and aluminum so we can start your project with a moment’s notice.

After we receive your order, the steel is transferred to our cut department. Standard products are made from galvanized steel. This provides rust inhibition for longevity.

Each piece of material is hand cut to exacting specifications. Here Mike is shown cutting u-channel for wood fill with our saw equipped with a Tiger stop.

Each order is staged so that all material for each order stays together through the process.

Our plasma cutter has burned out some pieces for arched shutters that are being built. Note the pre-galvanized flat stock – no rusting on this product!

To start the welding process, the individual cut pieces are laid out on a table, squared, clamped and tack welded. This gives the basic structure of the piece.

Once the welders are certain everything is correct, they go to work fully welding all parts of the project. Bars on stall components are fully welded, not tack welded. This means more strength and stability.

Here you can see a piece that has been completely welded together. We use 2” square 14 gauge tubing to construct the entire stall.

Fixtures are used for our standard parts to ensure each piece ordered is an exact replica of the previous one.

Most companies skip this step…we take the time to meticulously grind down all facial welds on our steel manufactured products. This ensures a smooth, blemish-free finish.

All products are painted here in our 140,000 square foot facility. First the product is hung on racks.

Next, each piece is washed with a special solution which removes the residue from welding and prepares the steel to accept the powder coat paint. In-house powder coating is standard on all products. Keeping this process on-site means we can monitor and maintain top quality standards.

Lee has been painting for Classic for over a decade. With Lee at the helm, you can be guaranteed a beautiful finish on your stalls!

After baking for about 30 minutes the product is brought out of the oven to cool.

We make every effort to be sure that your product arrives in pristine condition – we bubble wrap each stall.

Wrapped, banded and ready to go!

We hope you enjoyed having a behind-the-scenes look at how our products are made. American-made Classic Equine Equipment products can help you build the barn of your dreams. To visit our web site for our online catalog, click HERE.

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You Can Prevent Injuries Before They Happen

Wednesday, September 5th, 2012

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. ~ Ben Franklin

And if you own a horse, you know how expensive that “pound of cure” can be. So to keep your horse healthy and your wallet happy, there are three main areas around the stable that you should look at to help prevent injuries.

FENCING:

There are many types of fencing available to horse owners and all have their strengths and weaknesses. Here are some of the problems to watch out for:

Pipe fencing is expensive, but requires little maintenance. However, these types of fences have little or no “give.” If your horse runs full speed into one, it is an unforgiving barrier that can cause injury. In addition, horses are notorious for getting their heads under the rails (and possibly stuck) while trying to reach that “perfect” blade of grass on the outside. Horses can also be susceptible to kicks from a neighboring horse or can get his own leg caught between the rails if he is kicks.

Wire fencing has that amount of “give” that makes it safe for horses that run into it. However, make sure that the fence is woven wire (stronger than welded wire) and that the holes are small enough so that a kicking horse can’t get a hoof stuck in the fence.

Wood fencing is traditional in horse farms, but, while it has the “give” to cushion horses that crash into it, it can also break and splinter, possibly causing gashes in a horse’s side. Horses often love to lean over a fence to visit or eat and can easily pop out a railing, allowing your horse to escape. Wood also takes a lot of upkeep against the weather. And if you have a horse that cribs, you may soon find your parts of your fence ground down to nothing.

Electric fencing is a good alternative. But, like all the others, there are good ones and not so good ones. First, consider your horse’s eye sight. Thin strands of electric wire can be difficult for a frightened horse to see. Have you ever seen the helpful hints about using dental floss to cut soft cheese? A thin unyielding wire can have a similar effect on your horse’s flesh if he runs into it. A wider tape fence might be a better choice for both visibility and safety.

Barbed wire fencing – no, never, end of story. If you have it, even if there’s electric fencing in front of it, it’s not worth the possibility of disaster.

PASTURE:

In addition to checking the fencing around your pasture for escape routes, there are things to watch out for in the pasture or turnout as well. Periodically walk your pastures and look out for:

Holes that need to be refilled. Moles, mice and even dogs can make dangerous holes your horse might step in.

Poisonous plants and weeds. You may not have planted them, but the wind and birds can drop unwelcome seeds into your area. This goes for making sure any trees and bushes in your pastures are horse-safe. For a list of the 10 most poisonous plants, trees and shrubs to horses, click HERE.

Trash and “recyclables.” Plastic bags, aluminum cans and the neighbor’s softball can all end up in your pasture. While usually not too dangerous, they may contain unwanted food that can attract wild animals or unsafe products.

Speaking of wild animals, look for nest, hives and other indicators that wild animals have moved into your pasture. Animals can carry rabies or other diseases and, if threatened, can lash out at a horse of human.

FOOTING:

Routinely check your riding areas for ruts, holes, bare areas and large rocks. Watering and dragging your riding areas on a regular basis helps keep the footing at its optimum level of support and comfort for your horse. Arenas that are properly constructed can last a long time, but not forever. You may want to inspect and add more of your footing material every few years. For information on good footing, click HERE to see our blog, “5 Things You Should Know For Good Arena Footing.”

Take a few minutes to check on these three areas at your barn and sleep easier at night knowing you’ve helped prevent a possible injury to your horse.

Posted in Barn Management, Horse Health, Horse Sports, Riding | No Comments »