As we spoke about in yesterday’s blog, contagious equine diseases are a concern year-round, but your horse’s exposure risk is heightened especially during show season. Thankfully there are a number of measures you can take to lessen the chance of disease spread throughout your farm if one of your horses should become ill.

New Arrivals

Make sure new horses undergo veterinary examination and have a clean bill of health along with a current Coggins certificate. Once on the farm, isolate new horses for thirty days; ideally, stall them in a building which is separated from your other horses. New horses should be turned out alone, and be sure that you use different stall cleaning equipment, brushes, and tack for the new arrivals. Work with them last and wash your hands thoroughly after handling them. Monitor them for any signs of illness, and take their temperatures daily – an increase in temperature is an indicator of illness.

Daily Practice

Daily maintenance of your barn can go a long way to preventing the spread of disease, and it’s great to keep in mind that the more horses that an object, such as a brush or piece of tack, comes into contact with, the greater the chance of contamination. Feed horses separately, from their own feed tubs, and use separate water buckets for each horse. Clean tubs and water buckets regularly – apple cider vinegar can make a great cleanser and won’t leave soapy residue behind.

Provide each horse with its own halter, set of brushes, and tack, and don’t swap back and forth. Instruct riders and workers to wash their hands between working with different horses, and explain that the equipment should not be shared between horses. If you have a multi-barn complex, then provide each barn with its own set of stall cleaning tools, such as pitchforks, wheelbarrows, and brooms. Identify them with the name of the barn, and instruct staff that the tools should only be used in their designated barns.

If you do have an ill horse, separate him from the others immediately, and disinfect everything he’s come into contact with. It may seem intuitive to try to close up your barn in the event of an illness, but closing barn doors or windows will limit fresh air and actually increase the chance of disease spread. Keep your barn well ventilated, and open up any windows or doorways possible to keep air circulating.

The Importance of Vaccination

Photo Source: thehorse.com

Vaccines are your horse’s first line of defense against illness. Although vaccines cannot protect your horses from every disease, they will lessen the number of diseases that you must worry about. The specific vaccines that your horse will need will vary depending on the area in which you reside; speak with your vet to make sure that your horse receives all of the recommended vaccines. Be sure to mention if you will be traveling to shows, especially if the travel will bring you into different regions, as your vet might recommend additional vaccines. Keep all of your horses up to date on their vaccines to avoid unnecessary health risks.

Barn biosecurity is an area where a bit of planning can go a long way, and can even prevent you from having large-scale problems in the future. How tight are your current barn biosecurity precautions?

A well thought-out set of rules can keep a barn running safely and effectively.  While rules will vary with each individual facility, there are a number of common areas you should consider in establishing your own set of barn rules.

Safety First

Even if safety rules seem basic, such as closing gates behind you and keeping the door to the feed room closed, cover all of your bases and state the rules so that there are no misunderstandings. Will dogs be allowed on the premises? If so, determine where and when they are allowed, and specify if leashes are required.

Responsibility

Establish just what riders are responsible for. Are they to tack up their horses before lessons? Clean tack? If they will be using common areas, such as a set of cross ties, you might request that they clean up the areas after each use. If your barn has certain hours of operation, be sure to clearly include those, and specify that all duties must be completed within those hours.

Rules of the Ring

To avoid any conflicts concerning who has use of which riding ring and when, outline this as clearly as possible in the rules so that every rider understands. Will lessons take precedence in a particular ring? If so, consider providing a sign-up sheet to avoid conflicting lesson times. Are there additional areas where riders can school if the main ring is in use? Also address the use of equipment in the ring, such as jumps or cones. Are riders allowed to change the equipment as long as they put it back once they’re finished?

Minors

If you will have minors at your barn, you might consider a separate section of additional rules pertaining to them. Will riders under age 18 ever be permitted to be at the barn alone, or must there always be an adult on the premises? If adult presence will be required, then it might be easiest to specify certain hours during which minors are allowed to be present – hours when you know an adult will be available. Spell out this section of rules as clearly as possible, and be sure to go over them in person with each minor and a parent.

Whatever rules you decide on, post a copy of them in your barn. Provide each rider with a copy; you might ask them to sign a copy for you to keep acknowledging that they’ve read and understand the rules. Put time and thought into your rules now, as having a comprehensive set can help you deal with any conflicts down the line.

Your horse is one of your most prized possessions, with your tack and equipment a close second.  One of the easiest ways to make sure your barn is free of areas or items that could cause harm or injury to a horse or owner is to have a good safety plan in effect.  Routinely check your barn with a critical eye to make sure you are following your plan.

FIRE

• Do you have “No Smoking” signs posted?  Are they enforced?
• Are debris, combustible material and weeds cleared at least 30 feet from structures for fire protection?
• Are fire extinguishers in working order? Place fire extinguishers in all buildings. In large facilities, place fire extinguishers every 40 ft.
• Inspect all wiring. Older wiring may have damage from weather or rodents.
• Check all electrical cords.  Appliances and equipment should be unplugged when not in use.
• Are there cobwebs and dust accumulating behind refrigerators and other appliance, around lights, near electrical sources? If so, clean the area.
• When possible, hay and shavings should be stored in a separate building. Storing hay in a well ventilated loft is preferable to the floor. If you store hay on the floor, place it on pallets as far from stalls as possible. Keep the areas clean and swept.
• Replace vegetation with fire resistant plants – NOTE: FIRE RESISTANT DOES NOT MEAN FIREPROOF!  Fire resistant plants do not readily ignite from a flame.

SAFETY

• Are emergency numbers and information posted near the phone or in the barn aisle? Is the information up-to-date?
• Boarding facilities should have safety rules clearly posted?
• Are aisle ways clear of clutter? Any items stored in the aisles should be placed on hooks high enough that a panicked horse will not injure himself. Tack boxes and other items on the floor should not prevent stall doors from opening.  Be sure rakes, manure forks and other barn implements are safely put away.
• Check stalls for damage to wood surfaces, broken or cracked feeders, protruding nails, etc.
• Check the floors for damage or uneven surfaces.
• Look around the bottom of stalls for areas that may be hazardous when a horse rolls.
• Check latches and door knobs. Are they in good working order? Could a horse escape? Do they pose a hazard? Will tack or horses be hung up on them?
• Check floors for standing water, slick surfaces and uneven areas.
• Use safe fencing and keep it well maintained.
• Check first aid and emergency supply kits. Do you need to replenish supplies? Throw away expired over the counter and prescription medications and replace as needed.

SECURITY

• Use gate access to your farm.  Classic Equine Equipment designs and manufactures Custom Entrance Gates to fit all spaces and requirements – whether farm, residential or commercial. All gates are made with the same high quality steel and attention to detail as our horse stalls. We can provide automatic gate openers as well for a complete entrance system.  And require a pass code to access the property.
• Control access through doors – feed, tack rooms and other high security areas can have locks on doors installed requiring a key or combination to enter.  Change the lock or combination every so often, especially if you have boarders and one of them leaves.
• Use grills on all stall windows to discourage entrance by crawling through them. Consider installing a security system on outside doors and windows.
• Install security lights at farm entrance and around barn doors. Either leave them on from dusk to dawn or install motion detection lights to alert you to intruders.
• Keep bushes and plants trimmed around windows and doorways.  These can be inviting places for an intruder to hide.
• Use technology – stall cameras can be mounted in each stall allowing each owner to monitor their horse at any time through the website using a security code.

Following these steps can help insure your peace of mind when you’re away.

The way your horse hears is different from the way you hear.  Knowing what and how horses hear will help you design more comfortable and enjoyable spaces for your equine companions.

Horses’ hearing is tuned to the upper frequencies.  A human typically hears sounds between 20Hz and 20kHz, while a horse hears sounds between 55Hz and 33.5kHz.  Therefore, your horse can pick up on sounds that you aren’t aware of, such as the rustling of grass.  In a building, high frequency noises emanate from electronic equipment and light fixtures.  Using fluorescent fixtures with electronic ballasts rather than electromagnetic ballasts will reduce high-frequency buzzing noises.  While we don’t know for sure that horses are bothered by this sort of noise, we know that they enjoy environments that are more natural.

Horses can become acclimated to all sorts of noise, including loud and percussive sounds, which is why they can be used in military and police work.  However, because horses are prey animals, they are frightened by noises that are surprising or unknown.  Horses are particularly alarmed by noises that are accompanied by unusual visual stimuli or ground vibration, which they pick up in their hooves.  Traveling to a horse show can be a very stressful experience for a horse, in part because of the cacophony of sounds.

Here are some ideas for creating more peaceful auditory surroundings:

• Reduce chaos by carefully segregating vehicular and equine traffic flow.
• Consider designing barns with more mass in the walls to isolate interior environments from noise that occurs outside.  For example, the medical barn stalls at Woodside Equine Clinic are constructed of tilt-up concrete walls that are finished on the inside and outside.  The effect is a peaceful place for recovering equine patients.  If you are planning to build a wood-framed barn, then adding insulation can help.

• Move air with the quietest fans that you can purchase.  High-volume, low-speed (HVLS) fans are often used in agricultural and equine environments.  They move a lot of air very quietly.  See this website for more information.  http://www.bigassfans.com/
• In equine treatment, work, and tacking spaces that are constructed of all hard surfaces, you will need some sort of sound dampening material to reduce unwanted reverberation.  Examples include:
  • Rubber flooring or mats.  Rubber is good at dampening sound.
  • Sound baffles.  These come in many different materials, including wood.
  • Acoustical ceiling treatments.  These can be carefully selected to be cleanable and appropriate for use in equine environments.

Once you have done as much as you can with your buildings, install a background noise system that masks other sounds.  Examples could include a water fountain or soft music.  Because horses aren’t very skilled at localizing sounds, overlaying a pleasant masking sound can help to reduce the perceived effect of distant noises.

Take time to consider your horses’ sense of hearing and reduce and eliminate unnecessary noise.   Your horses will appreciate the effort!

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB is a principal at Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities since 1979.  Heather’s primary area of expertise is the design and management of equine and large animal projects.  She is also highly experienced in the streamlined management of animal shelter projects.  Heather was the Project Manager for the country’s first LEED Platinum animal shelter designed for the City and County of Denver.  Heather speaks regularly about the design of large animal facilities at such conferences as the Veterinary Economics Hospital Design Conference for the Central Veterinary Conference and the American Association of Equine Practitioners Annual Conference.

This week we’re pleased to introduce you to Don Buyse, Classic Equine Equipment’s Texas representative. Don has been in construction all of his life. He specialized in barn building, and has been a Classic Equine Equipment distributor for fifteen years, and has been our exclusive Texas representative for eight years. We spoke with Don about the process of barn building and some of the basics you should know when planning to build a barn.

What is your background in regard to the horse industry?

I’ve been in construction all of my life. My father was in construction, and I’ve been building farm and ranch buildings from when I was a kid on – I had to drag 2×4’s when in the third grade. For the last twenty years of my life I’ve been fortunate enough to be able to choose what I wanted to build, and I focused exclusively on equestrian buildings. I built horse barns and worked on horse-related properties because that’s what I enjoyed, because I love the horses so much.

I was also on the board of directors for the National Frame Builders Association (NFBA). The NFBA is an organization which represents the post frame industry in the United States and Canada. I was on their board for many years.

I really got into building some nice custom homes, and I also learned about the new technology that was out there; I did my research finding out what materials I could use. That’s actually how I met Adam Busse, who owns Classic Equine Equipment. Part of my job for the NFBA was to work the annual trade show they sponsored where different companies come to show their products to builders. I’d been lucky enough to have been featured with one of the barns I’d built on the front cover of the NFBA’s magazine. Adam came to the trade show as he was just getting into the business, and he and I got to work together.

I’ve used every horse barn product out there, but I stick with the Classic product because I really liked the product. About six years ago I knew I was going to retire from building, and when I told Adam that I had quite building he said, “No, you’re going to be the Texas representative for Classic Equine Equipment.” I agreed, and I started selling stalls instead of building barns and putting the stalls in them.

I have my barn that I show to people, and every stall in that barn is made a little differently so that I can have clients come in and get a hands-on feeling of what they like. That’s really helped a lot, because sometimes people come in with an idea, but then when you get a hands-on feeling, the product really sells itself. It’s easy for me to sell Classic products because the product is such a good product that it sells itself. I enjoy selling for Classic because you’re not giving somebody something that’s not going to last. It’s top of the line, as far as I’m concerned.

How many barns have you helped build or design?

I have three photo album books, and each one has hundreds of different barns. I’ve probably built over 500 barns in my twenty years building. Some are high-end; some are just very basic open sheds. I’ve done it all. And I built homes. I’d hit all of my goals when I decided to retire from building.

When planning a barn for private use (a non-public facility), what upgrades are really worth the effort?  

A fly control system is probably the thing that I tell people they just can’t live without. That’s a product I highly recommend to put into any barn for the comfort for the horses and the people in it.

What is a mistake that you have seen multiple times in barn construction, and how do you avoid it?

People often get a contractor who’s not a horse contractor; he’s just a metal building contractor. This contractor might put up a good quality metal building, but he doesn’t know how to build it to accommodate stalls, so the horse person can go in and put his stuff inside. You need to build your barn from the inside out. Plan it from the inside to incorporate whatever you want in your barn, and then design it out. Then your outside frame construction will meet with your stalls.

In metal buildings, every 25 feet there is a truss and a main column. Most people want 12×12 foot stalls, and two stalls measure up to 24 feet, not 25 feet. Then you have a metal column sitting out there and you have to figure out a way to build your stalls around that.

If you go to any metal building company and tell them that you want a barn, those spans are going to be 25 feet; it’s just what they do. They can change it and make it fit, but you need to have the foresight to tell them that. Often the builders will say that it will be no problem to put stalls inside the building, but then to build the stalls inside that barn we need to custom-build your stalls around those columns. It costs more to do a custom build like that than it would have if your contractor had altered the 25-foot span at the time of the barn’s construction.

What are some frequent questions you are asked regarding barn layout and design?

Most people want to know what others do when building a barn – what styles and options are popular – and I just tell people that they need to design their stalls for them. Do what works for you, choose the options that you will want. If you want a feeder at this height, build it so that you’re happy in the end. Don’t build your barn based on what somebody else likes.

Most of the time with backyard barns, clients don’t think about the little things, like the safety for the horse. Safety is the number one thing you need to think about. Then consider the durability, and that’s where Classic comes in. It’s a very strong and durable stall.

Why do you choose to represent Classic Equine Equipment versus the competitors?

The quality of the product. I’ve been involved with Classic Equine Equipment from the very beginning; I have three stalls in my barn and they are the original stalls that we put in at the very beginning – they’re at least thirteen to fourteen years old. But for the two center partitions between the stalls, I put in another product that was not Classic’s – I put those partitions in there to show people what that other product would look like over time – the partitions are rusty, peeling, and flaking, and Classic’s stalls look brand new. That sells the product right there.

What services do you provide to your potential and current customers that are different than other companies?

We can custom make everything. We make products to the nearest 1/8 of an inch. A lot of companies only give a standard length, whereas we can design our product. We have so many more options of feeders and doors – there isn’t anything out there that we can’t satisfy somebody with.

We can build stalls sturdy enough for a rank or mean stallion; we can beef up the stall to hold up to abuse. Our stalls look as good as the horses you put in them. We can also use different items to stop horses from getting to the product to hurt it so that it still looks just as good later on. It’s all customizable to what you need.

I sell the product because I personally feel it’s the best. I’ve used all of the products available on the market from competitors; Classic’s product is really a good, safe product – and you need a safe product. It lasts and is durable. You get your money’s worth so it does look good years down the road.

Don can be reached by email at don.buyse@classic-equine.com.

February is a blustery month, and a comfortable barn is a welcome haven from the biting wind.  But how do you maintain a pleasant indoor environment without wasting energy and spending too much money?  In this post, we will outline five strategies for creating an energy-efficient horse facility.  Whether you are building new or retrofitting, you can keep Mother Nature at bay without emptying your pocketbook.

1.  Insulate the roof.   The first step is to be sure that your structure is well insulated.  Start with the roof, as this is the most important surface.  Install at least R-30 insulation, which generally equates to 12 inches of fiberglass batt insulation or a few inches of closed-cell, polyurethane spray foam insulation.  We prefer foam insulation, because it has superior insulation value and isn’t ruined if it gets wet.

Be sure to get advice from local professionals before proceeding with any insulation project.  Not all insulation types work in all applications, and there are other important considerations for successful performance.

2.  Heat as little as possible.  A toasty barn seems comfortable to us humans, but spaces heated to more than 55 degrees F in the winter can be hard on horses if they go from inside to outside frequently.  It is more important to seek a balance between heating and ventilation.  Winter ventilation is necessary to protect indoor air quality and to reduce humidity.  If you can smell dust or ammonia, your horses’ immune systems are already working overtime.

Install a variable speed exhaust fan that can be adjusted to exhaust just enough air to keep the indoor air fresh.  Then heat the structure with overhead gas radiant heaters that are designed to maintain temperatures in your ventilated barn to between 40 and 55 degrees.

3.  Seal air leaks.  Systematically weather strip your doors and windows to prevent air from whistling through them when they are closed.  The most difficult door will be a sliding barn door, but even these can be sealed with some persistence and the right hardware.

4.  Install high efficiency lighting.  Incandescent fixtures convert only 10 percent of their energy into light.  Here are some better options that will give you a lot of bang for your buck:

• Install strip fluorescent fixtures in aisles, arenas, treatment and work areas.  These are up to 75 percent more efficient than incandescent fixtures.
• Use decorative compact fluorescent fixtures.  You don’t have to compromise on your desired aesthetic to save energy.  See the photo below of a Classic Equine Equipment fixture designed with an efficient fluorescent bulb.

5.  Do your maintenance.  It pays to keep everything clean and in good repair.  Remove dirt from fans and louvers.  This will lengthen the life of the equipment and allow it to run most effectively.

It is often worth spending a few dollars up front to enjoy a comfortable and efficient facility over the long term.  Every February you will be happy that you did!

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB is a principal at Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities since 1979.  Heather’s primary area of expertise is the design and management of equine and large animal projects.  She is also highly experienced in the streamlined management of animal shelter projects.  Heather was the Project Manager for the country’s first LEED Platinum animal shelter designed for the City and County of Denver.  Heather speaks regularly about the design of large animal facilities at such conferences as the Veterinary Economics Hospital Design Conference for the Central Veterinary Conference and the American Association of Equine Practitioners Annual Conference.

Have you ever wondered about the best way to feed your horse hay in his stall? The topic is surrounded by many opinions. Familiarizing yourself with the pros and cons of the hay feeding options can allow you to select the method that’s best for your horse.

Ground feeding is preferred by many owners because it allows horses to eat in the most natural position. Feeding hay from the ground mimics grazing and allows the horse’s respiratory system to work naturally, and a horse does not have to use his neck and back muscles to feed from the ground as he would need to pull hay from a feeder.

The cons of ground feeding include the fact that it’s easy for messy horses to scatter their hay all over their stalls, and much hay may be wasted in the process. Stall cleaning is also made more difficult. Feeding hay from the ground can make horses more likely to digest dirt and sand, especially if stalls are not matted.

Feeding hay from a hay net or hay rack mounted on the wall is another option with different pros and cons. Feeding hay from a higher position means that less hay is wasted. It takes a horse more time to eat hay out of a net or rack, so a horse is more likely to have hay overnight, which is a benefit for his digestive system. In larger barns, hay racks or nets make it easier to quickly walk down an aisle and tell at a glance that all horses are well supplied with hay.

Hay fed from a mounted rack or net requires a horse to feed from an unnatural position with his head raised. This can stress and strain his neck and back muscles, but it’s also problematic to a horse’s respiratory system, as a horse needs to lower his head to clear his esophagus. Additionally, bits of hay and dust have the potential to fall into a horse’s eyes, where they can cause irritation. Hay nets can also be time-consuming to fill and retie.

If you choose to feed from a hay net, be sure that it is properly tied at a height great enough so that it will not droop down when emptied. Improperly tied hay nets can be dangerous, as they may fall down too low where a horse could catch a leg in them.

In selecting a wall-mount hay rack, choose one with bars which are spaced closely enough together to prevent the possibility of a hoof being caught in the rack. Hay racks need to be secured high enough on a wall so that a horse cannot get his leg caught.

Manger feeding is an option which combines some benefits of both ground and rack feeding. Mangers keep hay well contained, meaning less is wasted or spread around the stall. They’re easily accessed and quick to refill. Mangers allow your horse to eat in a more natural position, and some feeders, such as Classic Equine Equipment’s corner manger kit, allows your horse to eat with his head down in a fully natural position. Mangers can also be placed in the corners of stalls to minimize the amount of space they take up.

“Just because something bears the aspect of the inevitable one should not, therefore, go along willingly with it.”  – Philip K. Dick

Many things that are built grow organically out of need, without the guidance of a long-term plan.  This is a charming growth pattern when applied to Italian hill towns, but not for equine barn complexes or veterinary facilities.  Equine campuses that grow without a plan develop a variety of preventable, long-term woes.  You may recognize some of these common issues:

• Chaotic traffic flow.
• Little space to maneuver trailers.
• Poor drainage.
• Inadequate separation of equine populations.
• Inappropriate adjacencies of buildings and services.
• Insufficient infrastructure.

The best way to avoid these problems is to develop a master plan that can serve as an overall guide for the placement of structures and infrastructure.

Master planning doesn’t have to be time consuming or expensive.  Ideally, your designer would sketch over a topographic survey of your property.  If surveying the property is unnecessary, then it may be possible to begin with a scaled site map printed from Google Earth.  By looking at the entire property from above, it’s much easier to experiment with initial layouts and future expansions.  This type of planning is effective for both new and remodeled campuses.

 Below are some rules of thumb for getting the most out of your master planning project:

• Consider the flow of horses, people and vehicles and create paths for all three.  Map circulation paths in different colors so you can identify and resolve conflicts.
• Consider the required turning radii for horse trailers, hay delivery vehicles, emergency access vehicles and trash trucks.  It’s best to create circular circulation paths so that no one has to back up large vehicles.
• Plan the locations of buildings and future expansions.  In the northern hemisphere, orient the buildings along an east/west axis to take advantage of passive solar energy.
• Locate septic fields and be sure there is enough room to expand them.
• Locate wells the proper distance away from septic fields.
• Develop a service area for trash, recycling and soiled manure storage.  Ideally this area should be away from the front door of the buildings and out of the client traffic flow.
• Identify the low spots on your site.  These areas can be used for storm water detention or for open space.  Arrange arenas and paddocks on higher ground to allow them to drain better and for easier maintenance.
• Oversize the building services as needed to account for future expansion.

While a solid master plan is useful and important, don’t let the process of planning force you into rigid and sterile solutions.  Take time to consider the experience.  Where are the views, the breezes?  How do the buildings enclose outdoor space?  If it is possible, within the context of an organized master plan, to capture a feeling of harmony with the surrounding environment, then your facility will be that much more successful.

Guest Post Provided By:

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB is a principal at Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities since 1979.  Heather’s primary area of expertise is the design and management of equine and large animal projects.  She is also highly experienced in the streamlined management of animal shelter projects.  Heather was the Project Manager for the country’s first LEED Platinum animal shelter designed for the City and County of Denver.  Heather speaks regularly about the design of large animal facilities at such conferences as the Veterinary Economics Hospital Design Conference for the Central Veterinary Conference and the American Association of Equine Practitioners Annual Conference.

Barn fires are every horse owner’s worst nightmare, and they can claim equine lives and structures in seconds. The good news is that many barn fires can be prevented. Take a look at your barn to see what measures you might take to lessen the risk of fire.

Hay storage

Hay is highly flammable and is one of the greatest fire risks in barns. If at all possible, store your hay in a separate structure at least 100 feet from your barn. If you must store hay in your barn, keep only a minimal amount and be sure that any hay you store has been properly dried before being baled. Hay can combust, so break open a bale each week to check its middle section for heat. If you find any excess heat within the hay, it needs to be removed from your barn immediately.

Similarly, bedding should also be stored away from the horses, preferably in a separate building away from the barn.

No smoking

Prohibit smoking anywhere around your barn, and post signs to remind all barn visitors of that fact. Discarded cigarettes with hot embers can ignite a fire when they come into contact with shavings or hay.

Electrical wiring

Make sure that your electrical wiring is up to code. All wiring needs to be encased by metal conduits to prevent mice or rats from gnawing on it, but if you suspect your wiring has been compromised, call in an electrician to evaluate the situation. Install covers over all electrical outlets, and put protective cages over all lights.

If you have any extension cords in the barn, make sure that they’re heavy-duty cords, not cords intended for indoor use. Check that all cords are without fraying, and that they’re secured well out of the reach of a horse.

Fans

If you use stall fans in the summer, be sure that they are intended for use in barns. Regular box fans are not equipped to deal with the amount of dust in barn settings. Since they have unsealed motors, dust can clog and burn out the motor. Pieces of the hot motor can fall freely out of the fan and into bedding below, igniting it. Invest in a fan intended for agricultural use which has an enclosed motor. And, of course, make sure that the cord is out of reach of your horses.

Equipment storage

Never store gas-powered machines, like tractors or lawn mowers, in your barn. They need to be kept in a separate structure. Move any flammable materials, like gasoline or motor oil, to that separate structure.

Cobwebs

Remove all of the cobwebs from your barn at least once a week. Cobwebs are highly flammable and can accelerate a fire. Dust should also be removed regularly, as it’s also flammable – think of it as a very good reason to keep up with your barn cleaning.

Fire alarms

Equip your barn with multiple detectors, especially including your hay storage area, if it should be within your barn. There are different types of detectors which may be suitable for barn use, including smoke, optical smoke, and heat detectors. If you’re unsure of which type of alarm you should use for your situation, then speak with your fire department to select the best product for your barn. Detectors can also be wired to immediately alert emergency personnel when they go off – an option you should consider if your barn is unattended at times during the day.

Fire extinguishers

Place multiple fire extinguishers spaced every fifty feet along the barn aisle. Also keep an extinguisher in your tack room and in your feed room. Check the extinguishers to make sure that they have not expired, and make sure that everyone in your barn is educated on how and when to use them. Barn fires can spread quickly, so a fire extinguisher is most helpful when a fire is discovered immediately before it has grown too powerful.

Horse barns are often filled with fire hazards, so take the time now to evaluate and protect your barn.

The New Year: It brings with it opportunities for reflection, goals, and change.  One of those such changes can be seen right here – starting this week, we will now be posting new blog entries three times a week, on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

To start our new blog schedule off, this week’s blogs will be a three-part series titled “Starting the New Year Off Right” which will focus on horse-related changes or goals you might want to make this year.  Today’s blog will take a look at barn keeping habits.  On Wednesday we’ll have suggestions for ways to improve your riding this year, and on Friday we’ll have some ideas of those little tasks that you never quite get around to.  Hopefully you’ll find one idea – or maybe a few – which you’ll incorporate into your equine resolution this year.

Reevaluating Your Barn Keeping Habits

The start of a new year can be the perfect time to reflect on your current barn keeping habits.  Sometimes, in the day-to-day chores, we overlook areas which could use improvement.  Take a moment to step back and examine a few things that might benefit from a change in your barn.

Ventilation

As humans we naturally want to bundle up our horses and close up our barns in the winter, but remind yourself that horses need excellent ventilation, or else their respiratory systems may be at risk.  Leaving barn doors open, at least partially, can immediately improve ventilation.  Additionally, using stall guards which allow you to leave stall doors open (under supervision) can be a quick and easy way to improve the quality of air available to your horses.

Turnout

Adequate turnout goes hand-in-hand with equine health and fitness.  Horses also benefit mentally from turnout, as some time out in a field or paddock can go a long way towards battling boredom and avoiding stall vices such as cribbing or weaving.  Are your horses getting the maximum amount of turnout time that you can provide them?  To increase their time outside, you might consider altering your schedule if possible, or feeding meals outside in the paddock if circumstances allow.

Feed room safety

Take a look at your feed room and make sure that you’re storing feed appropriately and safely.  Are supplement buckets accurately labeled and sealed?  Check current feeds for spoilage and give the area a good thorough cleaning-out – spilled feed will attract rodents, and dust quickly accumulates almost anywhere in barns.  Evaluate your feeding chart and make sure it’s up-to-date and clear enough so that, if someone unfamiliar with your current feeding plan had to take over in a pinch, he or she would be able to understand it and feed accurately.

Tack room organization

Even the most well-organized tack room can quickly be reduced to chaos during hectic show seasons, so now may be the time to reevaluate your tack room setup.  Tack is valuable, so take the time to make sure that it’s stored correctly and safely.  Saddles should be stored one to a rack and never stacked – a tack system can allow you to organize and store your tack in the way that works best for you.

Barn aisle safety check

Step back and view your barn aisle with a critical eye.  Accidents can happen quickly when working with horses – would your aisle be a trap if such an accident occurred?  Now is the time to do a clean-up.  Remove tack boxes or other debris cluttering the aisle.  If you have equipment stored in the aisle, find another place to keep it.  Check every set of cross ties to make sure that they’re equipped with some sort of safety release (baling twine works well in a pinch) which will give way in case a horse panics while tied.

Spending a bit of time now can go a long ways towards ensuring you start the new year off on a safe and healthy foot.