A Look at Equine Assisted Therapy

May 8th, 2013

We all know the impact that horseback riding can have on a life, and many riders joke that their horses are their four-legged therapists. But in the world of therapeutic riding, the horses truly DO become therapists, and they accomplish incredible feats.

Therapeutic riding

Therapeutic riding first gained popularity in the 1950’s, with the first riding centers in North America opening in the 1960’s. The North American Riding for the Handicapped Association, which governed the therapeutic riding organizations, opened in 1969. Since then, therapeutic riding has become a widely recognized powerful therapy.

Today, therapeutic riding schools operate all over the country. Therapeutic riding horses are carefully selected; they must be strong and sound enough to carry a rider who may be unbalanced, but they must also be quiet and gentle, taking distractions in stride and always looking out for the rider on their backs. Depending on the individual rider’s needs, a horse handler may lead the horse during lessons, and one or two side walkers may walk alongside the rider to assist him if they are needed. Many therapeutic riding schools rely on volunteers to act as horse handlers and side walkers.

therapy

Therapeutic riding is based on the idea that the motion of the horse can stimulate the rider’s body, mimicking the movement that would normally occur as a human walks. As the horse sways, he shifts the rider’s pelvis from side to side, stretching and strengthening the rider’s muscles. Riders must constantly balance to keep up with the changing movement of the horse, so through riding the rider develops strength, coordination, and balance.

Riding, and even just interacting with horses provides riders with many additional benefits. Activities such as grooming develop rider flexibility and confidence. Cognitive awareness is also required in working with horses, as is problem solving and empathy. Social skill and communication development occur as the rider interacts with the riding instructor, assistants, and horse.

Riding develops multiple muscles at once, and has the added benefit of increasing rider cognitive function and confidence. While more traditional therapies serve only as just that – therapy – riding is an activity which riders often enjoy, making them eager to return and continue. Therapeutic riding gives riders a sense of accomplishment and empowerment that they might not find elsewhere, and competitions, such as the Special Olympics, allow therapeutic riding program participants to compete.

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Today therapeutic riding serves riders with a wide range of disabilities, including cerebral palsy, downs syndrome, arthritis, traumatic brain injuries, autism, behavioral issues, spinal cord injuries, and muscular dystrophy, among many others. The benefits of therapeutic riding are many, and riding can have a significant impact on a rider’s life. For additional information on therapeutic riding, visit the Professional Association of Therapeutic Riding (PATH) at their website.

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Keeping Riders Cool During the Summer

May 6th, 2013

The summer brings with it wonderful weather for riding, but it also brings the challenge of staying cool in the saddle. Last week we looked at ways to keep your horse cool and comfortable – now let’s take a look at some measures you can take to keep yourself comfortable while riding in the heat.

Keeping Riders Cool During the Summer

Choose clothing carefully

Opt for light colors whenever possible, since darker colors absorb the sun’s heat. There is a wide variety of lightweight clothing on the market for use during the summer months. Look for clothing that is lightweight and fits loosely, and ideally choose clothing that wicks moisture. If possible, wear your shirt un-tucked to increase air circulation. Be sure to wear plenty of sunscreen whenever you’re riding or working outside.

Think about your helmet

Consider investing in a lightweight, well-ventilated helmet, if you haven’t done so already. Choose one in a light color with plenty of air vents to keep your head cool. Cooling helmet liners are also available to further prevent your helmet from heating up.

Keep your neck cool

Cooling your neck makes your entire body feel cooler. Soak a bandana in cold water and wrap it around your neck before mounting up. There are also neck wraps made specifically for riders; soak them in water and refrigerate them before your ride to stay comfortable the whole time.

Hydrate

Staying hydrated is the most important thing you can do to keep yourself cool in the summer. Always bring plenty of water with you when you to go the barn. Fill a water bottle halfway with water and freeze it. When you’re heading out to the horse barn, take the bottle out of the freezer and fill the remaining space with water. The ice will melt as you ride and your water will stay cool.

Ride early or late

If your schedule permits it, try to ride early in the morning or late in the evening, as those are the hours when the sun is at its weakest. Avoid midday rides; the heat will be at its worst then. Your horse will also appreciate it if you avoid the hottest hours.

Here’s wishing you warm (but not too warm) days of riding!

 

 

Precautions Against Horse Theft

May 3rd, 2013

You love your horse that is why theft is always a concern for horse owners. While you can’t be with your horses 24 hours a day, you can be proactive and minimize the risk of equine theft.

horses

Identify your horse

Horses with visible identification, such as a freeze brand, are less appealing to thieves. Tattoos and microchips can also permanently identify your horse, making it easier to reestablish ownership if he should ever be stolen. Be aware, though, microchips aren’t a surefire identification strategy, since there are multiple kinds of microchips which require different scanners to read them.

Maintain current records

Keep up-to-date records on every horse. Include copies of all ownership papers. Also include photos which could help to identify your horse. Take photos of facial markings, unusual coat whorls, scars, permanent blemishes, and your horse’s tattoo or freeze brand, if he has one. If your horse is microchipped, include a copy of his microchip registration in your records, as well.

Observe your farm carefully

Know who should be present at your farm, and when. Keep an eye out for unfamiliar people or vehicles, especially if they appear repeatedly. Take note of the make, color, and license plate of strange vehicles, if possible.

Make trailers inaccessible

Store your horse trailers out of sight and far from the road. Keep them locked, and keep hitch locks on them with the keys stored securely. Also be sure to lock your trucks and remove the keys.

Post signs

Posting signs around your property can help to prevent theft. “Beware of Dog” signs, or signs which identify that a security system is in place can be helpful. Also consider posting signs on the horse stall doors stating that each horse is microchipped.

Consider paddock safety

Try to avoid ever locating paddock gates close to the road. If you do have gates which border the road, make sure that they are heavy-duty and always kept chained and locked. When you turn out your horses, remove their halters and take their halters back into the barn – this would make horses more difficult for a thief to catch.

Make your farm unappealing

Little measures, such as keeping property gates closed, can help deter thieves. If you don’t already have them, install security lights on your farm to draw attention to movement and to make it more difficult to approach the barns without alerting others. Try to frequently alter your routine, and consider investing in a security system for your barn.

Keep your farm well-attended

A clearly inhabited house on the barn’s property is a major deterrent to thieves. Make sure that lights are on at night, and try to always leave a vehicle in the driveway, even if no one is actually home. If you go away for a few days, invest in a house- and barn-sitter who can stay overnight at the house to be a presence on the grounds.

Stay in touch with your neighbors

Your neighbors can be powerful allies in preventing equine theft. Let them know who is supposed to be present at your farm, and have them keep an eye out for unusual activity. Offer to do the same for them, and keep in touch to update each other about any concerns seen in your neighborhood.

Plan ahead and stay alert to head off horse theft before it can occur. Make yourself very present on the premises, and keep your barn well-attended and monitored. Report any suspicious activity you observe to the police, and be proactive to avoid horse theft.

Original Source: http://blog.classic-equine.com/2013/05/precautions-against-horse-theft/

 

 

 

 

Barn Building 101: The Word on Wood

May 2nd, 2013

all woodThere are many horse owners who like the traditional look of a wood when designing their barn.  And, if you are interested in “going green,” often wood barns provide a much small environmental footprint than those made with other materials.  Wood is also a natural insulator so is an excellent choice for areas where summer heat and winter cold temperatures are extreme.

There are many types of wood out there and it can be daunting to figure out which one to use.  The general answer?  It depends on what’s most available in your area as well as your area’s weather condition.  Heavy snows may require one type of wood while areas with insect issues might be best with another.  Whatever you choose, if you’re building your walls with wood, use pressure treated wood whenever it’s in contact with earth or steel.  However, pressure-treated wood should never be placed where horses can get to it.

When researching the best wood for your barn, look for lumber that has a high-bending strength, good nail holding power, moderate shrinkage, is decay resistance, withstands splitting, has good painting and weathering qualities, doesn’t warp and is easy to work with.

Classic Equine Equipment keeps in stock premium imported hardwood and Southern Yellow Pine.  Both types are milled to their exacting specifications – including a tongue and groove as well as a v-notch on the face of each board. Additional types of wood are also available upon request.  Wood is sold separately.

Tongue and groove wood material for your stall lining is one of your best options because it’s flush and there are no ledges.  Some horses find chewing on wood an amusing pastime.  But there’s a possibility of splintering and chemical ingestion. Keep your barn looking good and your horse safe by eliminating opportunities to chew.

Classic Equine Equipment’s Brazilian hardwood is 1” this and comes in 12” increments.  A true hardwood, it is very dense and durable.  Although no wood can be considered “horse proof”, the strength of this wood is exceptional.

The Southern Yellow Pine comes in 2”x8”x12’ lengths.  It is #1 or better premium wood – no warping, stains, stamps or discolorations.  Although not as dense as the hardwood, this is the strongest of the “softwoods” and is a very popular choice for horse stalls.

HDPE stall frontHDPE (High Density Polyethylene) uses primarily recycled postconsumer plastic with a positive environmental impact to create a long-lasting, no maintenance and weather resistant material.  HDPE is UV resistant, easy to maintain and does not require staining.  It comes in a variety of lengths and colors.

Many barn builders use high-grade 90% Spruce J-Grade logs.  The lumber is uniformly seasoned in dry kilns which improves strength and stiffness.  It also enhances its appearance and increases its resistance to decay and insect attack. It can be used for all aspects of barn building, including a log siding.

Red cedar is another option for your barn.  However, the oils in cedar that help protect it are extremely enticing to horses.  They love to chew on cedar wood so confine your use of cedar to the outside of the barn.  While beautiful, it is not as structurally strong as other types of wood.

Bamboo is one of the fastest-growing plants on Earth, with reported growth rates of 39 inches in 24 hours.  Bamboo is best used as flooring in the tack room, your office or in the barn club house.

Be as picky with your choice of lumber as you are with the rest of your barn design.  Low grade wood may look just fine when you put it in, but five years later you can have problems.  Like most everything else, you get what you pay for.

Keeping Your Horse Cool in the Summer

May 1st, 2013

The summer heat can make staying cool a challenge for anyone, and chances are you don’t have the luxury of an air conditioned barn.  Your horse will thank you if you take some steps to keep him cool and comfortable.

Cover the Basics

Shelter and access to clean water become even more important during the summer.  Your horse will drink more water, so be sure to check his buckets regularly and keep the supply fresh and appealing.  If your horse is a heavy sweater, consider adding electrolytes to his diet to encourage him to drink and replenish those lost through sweat.

Provide your barn with as much ventilation as possible to keep temperatures down.  Open any doors and windows available, and consider installing fans if you haven’t already done so.  Be sure to use only fans which are barn-safe; household fans not intended for barn use are serious fire hazards.  Classic Equine Equipment offers multiple fans safe for barn use which will keep your horse cool and comfortable.

fans

Learn to Love the Dark

Change your turnout and riding schedule to take advantage of the cooler weather that comes in at nighttime.  If possible, turn your horse out at night instead of during the day.  Ride at times when the sun isn’t at its strongest – early in the morning or late in the afternoon are better times to ride, though waiting until even later on into the evening can mean a cooler, more enjoyable ride for you and your horse.

Know Your Horse

On extremely hot, humid days, it might be best – and safest – to forego riding altogether.  Some horses handle heat better than others, so familiarize yourself with your horse’s individual limits, and stay well within them.  Watch for signs that the heat is getting to be too much for your horse – these signs include a slowed pace, lack of impulsion, lowered head, labored breathing, and listless ears.  If you observe any of these signs while you’re riding, immediately dismount, untack, and cool your horse.

Cool Him Down – Correctly

keepingyourhorsecool

While hosing off horses is a popular way to cool them down, many riders hose the horse off once, scrape off the excess water, and leave it at that, but doing so actually leaves warm water to sit on your horse’s skin, which doesn’t offer much in the means of cooling.  To effectively cool your horse you need to continuously hose him down, scrape off the excess water, and then repeat the process until your horse is cooled.  Focus on the large muscles, such as the hindquarters, neck, and shoulders, since these produce lots of heat.

horse

Hot summer days are certainly ahead of us, but with a little preparation you can manage them so that your horse is as comfortable as possible.

 

 

 

The Camargue Horse

April 29th, 2013

Have you ever visited southeastern France?  If so, you might have been lucky enough to have seen the Camargue horse, a breed which originated in the Rhone delta.  These hardy horses are still ridden by the “guardians,” the riders who herd bulls used for bullfighting.

camargue-horses

History

The Camargue horse is believed to be one of the oldest horse breeds, though its exact origin is somewhat of a mystery.   It very much resembles the horses depicted by prehistoric cave drawings, and may be a descendant of the Soutré horse, a now-extinct breed of horse which once roamed southern France.  As new settlers, such as the Celts, Greeks, and Romans, entered France, the horses they brought could also have influenced the Camargue breed.  It’s said that Julius Caesar favored the Camargue horse, and Napoleon also used the Camargue horse in his armies because of its hardiness and agility.

The Camargue horses lived in the Rhone delta for thousands of years, and grew to thrive in the marshy areas there.  The French government established standards for the breed in 1976, and set up a stud book in 1978.  Today the horses live in the Rhone delta, and the gardians maintain the herds with annual roundups, inspections, branding, and gelding.

Breed Characteristics

Camargue horses have a coarse, unrefined appearance.  Their heads are heavy and large, mounted on a short, straight, and upright neck.  Camargue horses have short and straight bodies with wide chests and strong legs and hooves.  They are short, usually standing only 13 or 14 hands high.  They are born black or dark brown, but gray out as they age; adults are always gray.

camargue-horse

Camargues are typically calm.  They are strong and agile, with excellent endurance, making them ideal mounts for dressage, endurance riding, and mounted games.  Today the horses are used to manage bull herds in France, and they also provide visitors and tourists with rides along the seacoast.  They are a protected breed, and many of them live a semi-feral existence on the wildlife sanctuary marshes of southeastern France where they sustain themselves on marsh grasses and reeds.

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Manure Management: The Ins and Outs of Composting

April 26th, 2013

Manure is a fact of life on horse farms, and it’s found in abundance – but through composting, you can put it to good use. If your farm has gardens or hayfields, then you can probably use the compost yourself.  If not, then chances are you’ll be able to find some local farmers or gardeners who will gladly take composted manure off of your hands – and sometimes even pay for it.

composting

Setting Up

To begin composting, you’ll want to find an ideal and convenient location for your compost operation.  Choose a site which is easy for you to access with a wheelbarrow and tractor – it shouldn’t be so far from the barn that it makes hauling the manure a chore.  Be sure that the site is at level, or slightly higher, ground; composting in a lower area will cause too much water to flow, making the compost too wet.

Whether you select to simply pile the manure or build actual bins will depend on the size of your operation.  Smaller barns may find that using piles is easiest, but the volume of manure produced at larger facilities may warrant constructing large bins.  Bins with concrete bottoms and three wooden sides allow you to pile the manure high and can keep the operation well-organized.

compost-bin-01

You’ll need at least two separate compost piles or bins; three piles or bins is ideal.  As one pile composts, you move on and begin filling up your second pile, then as it begins to compost you can start in on the third pile.

Managing the Process

It’s important to keep each compost pile covered with either a tarp or a constructed top to each bin.  In the summer piles may dry out too quickly if uncovered, and in the winter there is often too much precipitation, making the piles too wet.  You should keep the piles damp, but not so damp that they’re soggy.  Hosing them down on occasion in the summer may be necessary.

If you have access to a tractor, then you should regularly turn the piles over so that air gets into the center of them.  The more oxygen that you can get into the center of the pile, the faster the composting process will occur.  If a tractor isn’t an option, then you can drill holes into the sides of long PVC pipes.  Make sure that the pipes have a wide diameter – 5” is ideal – and insert these pipes down into the center of the manure pile to allow for increased airflow.

Is It Done Yet?

The composting process generates heat, and the centers of the piles will heat up, then cool off when the process is finished.  The size of the piles will be reduced, and the texture will have changed from manure to a dark, rich soil.  You shouldn’t be able to see any of the original contents, like hay and manure.  Generally the process takes between two to four months.  When the composting is finished, then it’s ready to be used in gardens or even spread in fields.

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Barn Building 101: Fencing

April 25th, 2013

barn with rolling hills propertyKeeping your horse safe and secure with fencing is one of the best ways to prevent harm to your horse.  But a fence will only work as well as it is constructed, and that includes posts, gates and the fence itself.  However, sometimes the fence itself can be the cause of injury. Below is an overview of different types of fences and what to watch out for to keep you horse safe.

Wood Fencing

Wood can split, warp and even fall down, all making the fence less effective in keeping our horse in.  Over time, nails can work themselves out.  Horses and, in some places, termites, can weaken the wood by chewing on it.  Splinters and exposed nails can injure a horse who likes to rub or lean on the fence, while fine splinters can imbed themselves in their coat. To lessen risk and maintenance, use hard woods that are better than soft woods to prevent chewing and splintering. Spray-painting with approved black paint can extend the life of the wood about eight years and reduces splintering.

PVC Planks

If put together and installed correctly, they are a good choice.  But they sometimes have trouble staying intact.  The boards can slide into or out of the post openings and, if the post moves, the planks may slide out. If there is any kind of impact, they have some give, but ultimately can act they like wood.  Splintered PVC is like broken glass and very dangerous. They are not sturdy enough for stallions.

High-Tensile Smooth Wire

The wire lacks visibility, raising the risk of horses running into it and sustaining serious injury.  To help horses remember the fence is there, you can tie streamers to each section, to make them more visible.  Make sure to your acclimate your horse to the flapping streamers on both a calm and windy day before turning him loose.  Typically inexpensive to install and easy to maintain once horses learn to respect it.

Barbed Wire

This is probably the most dangerous fence for keeping horses.   When barbed wire cuts, it’s not very forgiving and makes for some very ragged wounds. Most injuries are where a horse cuts the neck on the top wire or cuts a leg by pawing the low strands.  Inexpensive to install, easy to maintain.

Mesh

The best wire for horse fencing is a five diamond V-mesh wire. The biggest problem with mesh wire is a tendency to sag or get pushed over by horses leaning over the top to graze.  The woven joints might catch and pull out mane and tail hairs, and the mesh, if too large,  sometimes can catch a shoe.  Can be somewhat expensive to install unless you have the time and tools to tighten the fence.  Monitor for damage sections.

Metal Pipe

Pipe can work great in small confinement areas, but it is very unforgiving.  When a horse hits it, he can cut himself. In addition, pipe fence can get very hot to the touch and can make it for a horse that touches it.  They are expensive to install, but virtually maintenance free.

Entrance Gates

Entrance Gates are an equally important element of a fence and can sometimes be a possible weak link.  Make sure the gate is wide enough for your needs. Will you be taking a tractor through the gap, or just walking a couple of horses through? Don’t have big openings between the gate and the post where a horse can catch a foot or a foal could stick its head. Make sure there isn’t a big opening between the top two rails where a horse could get a head in there.  To help maintain the integrity of your gate, don’t install it so it sits on the ground.  Check aluminum gates for sharp edges.  Routinely inspect wooden gates as they can lose their strength and fall apart from horses rubbing and pushing against them.

Once you have your fence and gates installed, it’s important that you routinely inspect them to be sure they are in good repair.

Original Source: http://blog.classic-equine.com/2013/04/barn-building-101-fencing/

Abscesses: Their Prevention and Treatment

April 24th, 2013

Have you ever gone out to the barn to find that your horse is suddenly lame, and reluctant to put weight down on one hoof?  There’s no heat or swelling in his legs, but it’s evident he’s in serious pain?  Chances are your horse could be suffering from a hoof abscess.

What is an Abscess?

An abscess is a bacterial infection in your horse’s hoof.  There’s debate over exactly what causes abscesses, but most theories state that abscesses are caused when bacteria works its way into the hoof through a puncture wound.  According to Kentucky Equine Research, bruised soles can lead to abscesses, as can nails driven too far into a hoof by a farrier.

hoof-abscess

Once the bacteria has entered the hoof, it grows and creates a painful pocket.  Heat may be present in the hoof, and some abscesses can even cause the horse’s lower leg to swell.  The bacteria will take whatever route provides the least resistance and will travel out of the hoof, relieving the pressure and pain that the horse feels.  Often abscesses burst through the coronary band.

Diagnosis and Treatment

Abscesses can fester for quite a while without your horse feeling any sensitivity, but when they grow and put pressure on the sensitive lamina of the hoof, your horse will suddenly go lame.  An increased digital pulse sometimes accompanies an abscess, and testing your horse’s hoof with hoof testers will usually reveal the painful area.  Horses with abscesses may be reluctant to put weight on the affected hoof, or they may walk without allowing their heel to touch the ground.

Abscesses do heal on their own without treatment, but the process is a long and painful one for your horse.  It’s best to call your veterinarian to verify that what you’re seeing is an abscess and not another injury which could require different treatment.  If your horse is wearing shoes, your veterinarian might pull them.  Depending on the positioning of the abscess, your veterinarian might trim away some of the hoof to burst the abscess and relieve the pressure (and pain) in your horse’s hoof.  If the abscess is buried deep within the hoof, your vet may decide that too much hoof would need to be trimmed, so he or she may instruct you to draw it out.soaking

Your vet will advise you about the best way to draw out an abscess.  Soaking the hoof in a solution of warm water and Epsom salt is a popular method, though there are a number of different approaches.  Once the abscess has burst it is important to keep the area clean, dry, and covered until the hoof has time to heal.  A hoof boot or creating a bandage out of a baby diaper, vetwrap, and duct tape will provide the hoof the protection it needs to heal.

Prevention

Wet, muddy paddocks soften your horse’s hooves and create prime conditions for bacteria growth, so keep your paddocks well maintained and dry, if at all possible.  Pick out your horse’s feet on a daily basis, and keep him on a regular farrier schedule to prevent cracking or unhealthy hooves.  Hopefully you won’t have to battle abscesses often.

Original Source:http://www.besthorsestalls.com/2013/04/abscesses-their-prevention-and-treatment
 

The Growing Sport of Horse Agility

April 22nd, 2013

Chances are the term “agility” brings to mind dogs racing over courses of obstacles.  But did you know that the sport is quickly gaining popularity among the equestrian community, and that the animals negotiating the courses are horses instead of dogs?

The Basics

Horse agility began in Europe, but its popularity has spread to the United States.  In horse agility, horse and handler negotiate a course consisting of a variety of obstacles.  Training in preparation for the courses is necessary, as the horse must learn how to negotiate different obstacles and take cues from his handler.  Agility can deepen your relationship with your horse, improve his training and physical conditioning, and it’s even an option for horses who aren’t trained for riding, since the course is done with the handler on foot.  Retirees and horses not yet old enough for riding can also participate, and there are no breed restrictions on competitions.

Competitions

Horse agility competitions are held at multiple levels.  In the upper levels, horse and handler work to complete the course against the clock.  As horses and handlers gain experience, then the agility is even done with the horse being “free” in the ring, without a rope connecting him to his handler.

Horse Agility

Obstacles are similar to those used in canine agility courses, but are constructed on a much larger scale.  It’s possible that your horse has even already encountered a few of the obstacles, such as jumps, bridges, and weave poles.  Each competition site will have its own obstacles, but other standard obstacles include crossing a tarp, walking through an area of “scary” objects, navigating a raised bridge, and jumping through a hoop.

Getting Started

If you’d like to try agility with your horse, then make sure that he’s physically sound before you begin training.  Take things slow and go back to the basics before confronting any obstacles.  Your horse will need to be able to lead and stand on a loose line.  Work on the basic commands of moving forward and backward, and giving to pressure.  Teach your horse to follow you in the ring, and reward him with praise when he does so.

When you introduce obstacles, do so slowly, giving your horse time to get accustomed to each of them.  Be patient, and make the obstacles as easy as possible – approach them at a walk, and let your horse sniff and investigate them.  You can find or create a number of obstacles simply by using what you have in your ring already, but if you’d like to branch out and try new, larger obstacles, then check to see if you have a local horse agility club near you.  Some clubs hold trainings and competitions, and you may be able to use their constructed course.

For more information on horse agility, visit the International Horse Agility Club!

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